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Thread: Car Maintanence

  1. #1
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    Car Maintanence

    Hi AVF.

    Very very off topic but seeking some advice regarding car maintenance.
    I drive a 2nd hand manual honda civic 2009 model that has around 60,000kms on the clock.
    The owners manual has service times due every 10,000 kms or 6months whichever comes first.

    I'm not keen on following the owners manual if i dont have to.
    Abit of a background of my driving habits....
    I do mostly very short trips (5-10mins) in stop-start city traffic. I know this kind of driving is bad and thus should stick to the regular servicing cycle..
    However, i'll never hit the 10,000 km mark and almost certainly always hit 6 months before 10k.
    Within that 6 months, i'll probably have driven 2000 km tops...

    I do feel a difference in the "smoothness" of the drive after fresh oil is put in and at the 5 month mark though.
    What would you suggest? I'm asking because several people have suggested just bypassing the 6months mark and doing a yearly service instead.
    Any thoughts?

  2. #2
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    Yep, I do mine when I feel the degradation of the oil, in smoothness or decreased km per litre. What weight of oil is recommended for your car?

  3. #3
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    Short trips never really heats the oil up for any length of time. This means that condensations can build up in the sump, especially with this type of start/stop driving. What can happen then is you go on a long trip, the oil gets really hot, and the water evaporates out of the sump causing the level to drop very suddenly in the first 100km. Not to mention it's not great for your engine either.

    I'd recommend you change the oil at 6 to 9 months whether or not you've done the 10,000 km.

    If there are platinum/iridium plugs available for your engine you should use them - the service life is 100,000km

    What grade of fuel do you use? 91 octane and 91/93 E10 are often false economy. By changing to 95 octane (super) you'll get better mileage, the engine will run cleaner, and you'll probably find any issues with rough idling go away too. The reason I mention this is that running rough is not normally caused by oil alone - unless it's really, Really bad oil.
    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

  4. #4
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    Always change the oil as a rule every 6 months if you are not going to do the full service.

    Apart from the condensation, the oil will lose its viscosity and lubricant qualities over time.
    maxsmd likes this.

  5. #5
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    As mentioned
    Oil & filter change and then just general stuff when needed

    The 6 month service thing over here (after living in England for many years) irks and confuses me somewhat
    I do think it's due to the 91 fuel being the norm rather than 95 with 98 being the premium in most countries
    Or that car manufacturers know that 50% of the dealers profits come from service and accessories rather than profit on the car sold

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vapntime View Post
    Yep, I do mine when I feel the degradation of the oil, in smoothness or decreased km per litre. What weight of oil is recommended for your car?
    Honestly do not know.
    I've changed bike oils myself.. not for the car. Just drive it in and do a log book servicing..

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabricator4 View Post
    Short trips never really heats the oil up for any length of time. This means that condensations can build up in the sump, especially with this type of start/stop driving. What can happen then is you go on a long trip, the oil gets really hot, and the water evaporates out of the sump causing the level to drop very suddenly in the first 100km. Not to mention it's not great for your engine either.

    I'd recommend you change the oil at 6 to 9 months whether or not you've done the 10,000 km.

    If there are platinum/iridium plugs available for your engine you should use them - the service life is 100,000km

    What grade of fuel do you use? 91 octane and 91/93 E10 are often false economy. By changing to 95 octane (super) you'll get better mileage, the engine will run cleaner, and you'll probably find any issues with rough idling go away too. The reason I mention this is that running rough is not normally caused by oil alone - unless it's really, Really bad oil.
    Thanks for that. Have been putting in 91 ever since i came to australia... In my home country, its always 98.. but the manufacturer i bought the car off advocated for 91...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianS View Post
    As mentioned
    Oil & filter change and then just general stuff when needed

    The 6 month service thing over here (after living in England for many years) irks and confuses me somewhat
    I do think it's due to the 91 fuel being the norm rather than 95 with 98 being the premium in most countries
    Or that car manufacturers know that 50% of the dealers profits come from service and accessories rather than profit on the car sold
    Thanks for that.
    Other than oil at every 6 months.. are there other things to look out for?
    Brake pads and tyres easy enough to "feel". Are the others?

    Everytime i take a trip to the mech it feels like a massive ripoff though.
    Lost my shit at them when they told me the did wheel rotations (as part of the service package purchased) and i realised they didnt.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxsmd View Post
    . but the manufacturer i bought the car off advocated for 91...
    I have no idea why they would do that. Deposits on cylinder heads and valves, and the resulting wear mean that you are going to be up for a major overhaul sooner. Modern engines are normally spec'd for 95 minimum. 91 and E10 really is rubbish fuel, but that's what most people are using just 'cause it's cheaper at the pump.

    95 is much cleaner fuel. I don't run 98 unless the fuel economy is that much better on 98, and that would probably only be on high compression engines. A friend advocates for onlyh ever using 98 - it has the hydrocarbon cleaning agents already added to it. A mechanic took the head off my mates engine to replace something (some stupid access problem) and was shocked to find it very clean indeed, on a vehicle with over 300,000 km on it.

    I've noted the mention of 98 causing fuel problems from the motorcycle thread and I'm wondering if the problem is actually the cleaning agents rather than the fuel itself.

    91 I've had issues with running rough. When I got my Mazda ute I used only 95 because just about all the 91 was E10 which was not compatible. When cyclones knocked out the ethanol plants in Queensland E10 became unavailable so I started using the 91 which was made available. After six months I noticed the vehicle was running really rough, nastily rough like it had never been serviced, and it was getting worse. After going through the electrics and finding nothing wrong I mentioned it to my friend (Mr "only use 98") and he suggested fuel. I put a tank of 98 in it and the problem was solved before I'd driven off then end of the concrete pad.

    Mileage figures didn't really support only using 98 though, so I went back to using the 95.

    ETA: it's worth doing the mileage figures on different fuels. If the mileage is better on 95, it's a safe bet that the engine is designed to run on more octanes than than the 91
    Last edited by fabricator4; 21-11-16 at 12:03 AM.
    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabricator4 View Post
    I have no idea why they would do that. Deposits on cylinder heads and valves, and the resulting wear mean that you are going to be up for a major overhaul sooner. Modern engines are normally spec'd for 95 minimum. 91 and E10 really is rubbish fuel, but that's what most people are using just 'cause it's cheaper at the pump.

    95 is much cleaner fuel. I don't run 98 unless the fuel economy is that much better on 98, and that would probably only be on high compression engines. A friend advocates for onlyh ever using 98 - it has the hydrocarbon cleaning agents already added to it. A mechanic took the head off my mates engine to replace something (some stupid access problem) and was shocked to find it very clean indeed, on a vehicle with over 300,000 km on it.

    I've noted the mention of 98 causing fuel problems from the motorcycle thread and I'm wondering if the problem is actually the cleaning agents rather than the fuel itself.

    91 I've had issues with running rough. When I got my Mazda ute I used only 95 because just about all the 91 was E10 which was not compatible. When cyclones knocked out the ethanol plants in Queensland E10 became unavailable so I started using the 91 which was made available. After six months I noticed the vehicle was running really rough, nastily rough like it had never been serviced, and it was getting worse. After going through the electrics and finding nothing wrong I mentioned it to my friend (Mr "only use 98") and he suggested fuel. I put a tank of 98 in it and the problem was solved before I'd driven off then end of the concrete pad.

    Mileage figures didn't really support only using 98 though, so I went back to using the 95.
    Great! Will try out 95 next time i'm at the pump. Much appreciated!
    fabricator4 likes this.

 

 
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