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Thread: difference between oxidised and non-oxidised mesh

  1. #1
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    difference between oxidised and non-oxidised mesh

    what are the main differences?
    i know there are 2 types of setting up the RBA.
    is one better than the other?


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  2. #2
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    ok haveing an non oxidised mesh will cause a short on your tank for the mesh that is not oxidsed propley will have a current pass through so if u oxidise the mesh it will stop the current runing through and allow your tank to run the way it should look up utube under oxidising mesh wicks .just know it is a must if u want your tanks or atty running how it should.if not it will just get hot spots on your wire or evan blow your wire and evan brake your divice if it do's not have a protection sercuit protection like the provari.best bet is to look up utube it shows best way and why.hope this helps.

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    hi bully, im really new to RBAs and still researching.
    im looking at this vid and it says unoxidised setup. It seems like he doesnt burn it.

    Edit : he does burn it but not oxidise (what he said)



    Edit 2 : another vid that really uses unoxidised ss mesh wick.

    Last edited by yuujin; 06-03-13 at 03:06 AM.


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    I did my first un-onxidised mesh 2 nights ago. Its going awesome!
    Ill post more in the morning....
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    cool ballza. let me know whats the difference!


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  6. #6
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    hey yuujin, when you burn it (like in those videos) you are still oxidizing the wick, just not the whole wick. It would help if you get an RBA that has a washer in the wick hole so that the un-oxidized wick does not create a short on the body of the tank.
    not doing the whole wick will lessen the chances of the oxidiztion messing with your juice but also increase the chance of shorts.

    As of late a lot of people have been wrapping the top part of the wick (where the coil is) with cotton gauze or 100% cotton linen string to stop the coil creating shorts. Also with the latest developments (i haven;t been keeping up 100%) that oxidizing your wick creates chromium oxide (a carcinogen) when you vape it (people correct me if i am wrong, just going off memory what i have read in the threads)

    Keep in mind i was not a fan of genesis mods as it was a bit too fiddly for me :P

    All in all, there are many ways to make a genesis coil and wick. What i would lean towards is an un-oxidized wick with the top section wrapped in cotton and with some sort of silicon washer to stop the wick shorting on the body of the tank. This would be a lot easier than oxidizing wicks in my opinion (i always found burning it a pain in the ass)


    Then to answer your original question, the two types silica wick and genesis RBAs are the two types. Gensesis types are supposed to be superior for flavor and nic delivery. Silica is supposed to be better for ease and throat hit.

    Genesis setups can have a bad metallic taste if set up wrong and you get hot spots and these are nasty! where as if it was silica you would get a less nasty (but still bad) dry hit and burned taste.
    Genesis has a break in time which can vary from 2-6ml of juice depending on the wick setup and 'seasoning' method (how many times you oxidize it and how many times you burn it with juice prior coiling), this period can also carry a metallic taste.

    Silica setups have a 'wick' taste which can be remedied by torching the silica wick first till it glows white a few times and also doing 2 or 3 dry burns after its setup (2 second bursts where the coil glows red then let it cool, then repeat 2 or so more times, doing longer can scorch the wick and you will have a burned taste regardless). Break in time is a lot less with silica wicks, if the pre burns are done, break in is within 1ml (in my experience, without pre burn, i;d say its about 2-3 ml but the wick taste never bothered me much)

    In short, Genesis RBA's have pros and its clear because a lot of people stick by it, but the biggest con (for me personally) is the fiddly part of setting it up and if the coil moves it could potentially create a short (a pain if your out and about). Silicas are very easy and forgiving compared to Genesis styles and the trade off there is a slight drop in flavor and nic delivery.

    So it comes down to personal preference. Do you want something that will be easy to setup and vape great? or do you want something that is fiddly but can vape really great? The trade off is your time (and possibly sanity from the learning curves :P and tinker time)



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    im a fiddly person so i guess genesis attys are for me.
    im gonna try fixing up a boiled unoxidised ss mesh with cotton up top and glad wrap in the middle to prevent shorts.
    i'll post my findings and let you guys know if its workable.


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  8. #8
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    No need for a silicone "washer" or insulator if you are using cotton under the coil on your wick. The cotton insulates the wick electrically I have wrapped 2 cotton/mesh hybrid wicks & both times the coil resistance was exactly the same with or without wick installed.
    So if you do it correctly, check the ohms before & after installing the wick, the ohms should be the same both times, that is how you know there is not going to be a short.

    Incidentally, the hybrid wicks vape just as good as an oxidised wick IMO but have fewer problems with hot spots, either in setting up the coil ( I have had none both times) or throughout the life of the coil before replacing it.
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  9. #9
    Noe
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    Quote Originally Posted by yuujin View Post
    im a fiddly person so i guess genesis attys are for me.
    im gonna try fixing up a boiled unoxidised ss mesh with cotton up top and glad wrap in the middle to prevent shorts.
    i'll post my findings and let you guys know if its workable.
    You don't need the glad wrap with a hybrid wick. You also do not need too much cotton, you want just enough to prevent the coil touching the mesh.
    davee likes this.
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  10. #10
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    thanks for the input Noe, i never followed through with genesis types before. I have stuck with silica



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