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Thread: decreasing resistance reading

  1. #1
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    Question decreasing resistance reading

    Ok, I've had a vamo for about a week now. Since Thursday when I attach a feeding system (clearo, atomisers, carto's, BCC) the resistance starts to drop. EG the clearomiser starts at about 2.6ohms then gradually decreases until it registers 'Lo' on the vamo and it will no longer function. The same for all of them. I can start vaping then shortly after it's a no-go.

    My thoughts were it may be one of the following (mostly the first point);

    • Dodgy batteries as the battery reading was decreasing quite quickly (4.2 down to 3.4). Yet some of the time after pulling the battery/batteries (I have 2 18350's at the moment) the battery voltage would display correctly again and I could vape for a short time again. Rinse and repeat.
    • Dodgy post shorting on something (in my mind the second most likely culprit)
    • Dodgy post connection yet if this was the case, it would display 9.9 on the vamo
    • juice getting into the board. I think if this was the case, it just wouldn't fire.


    I don't think it would be spring related as that part of it seems OK, no rattling when I shake etc. All of the feeding systems make contact because they all do work at the beginning.

    I was wondering if someone with a bit more knowledge could shed some light?

    (thankfully my ego I received the other day is functioning as it should)

  2. #2
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    Only time I've had problems with the Ohms rating was when my tank leaked and I got all kinds of crazy readings, which leveled out when I cleaned it all up, but you seem to be having battery problems too so I'll leave that for the experts. Sorry to hear you are having problems, mine has been a trooper.

  3. #3
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    is there any possibility its the juice on the heater, I found some juices drop the resistance pretty quickly. dry burning thoroughly should bring resistance back up in this case.

    that being said .. it pretty much sounds like you have a dodgy vamo from the description of the battery issue. I would not recommend using dual batterys in the vamo personally, wattage can be very high depending on what mode the vamo is in and little batterys could well be doing something weird.

    try it with an 18650 in there and see if batt voltage drops and goes back up .. it shouldn't.. if it does, vamo is DOA.

    what attys
    what juice
    got an 18650 ?
    lheamfrg likes this.
    In order of useful: Provari V2 and V1, vamo, eGo twist, Katana v3, Hex, Orion v2, LavaTube, eGo x 6, VMAX, 510N, Tick V2, Tick V1, noEgo 18650, noEgo 14650 , Indulgence x 2, 905 6v mod, KR808D



  4. #4
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    oh, vamo is not well sealed either .. juice on the board is a strong possibility.
    lheamfrg likes this.
    In order of useful: Provari V2 and V1, vamo, eGo twist, Katana v3, Hex, Orion v2, LavaTube, eGo x 6, VMAX, 510N, Tick V2, Tick V1, noEgo 18650, noEgo 14650 , Indulgence x 2, 905 6v mod, KR808D



  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stoney View Post
    is there any possibility its the juice on the heater, I found some juices drop the resistance pretty quickly. dry burning thoroughly should bring resistance back up in this case.
    I have been wiping everything out after some leakage with the BCC. haven't got anything I can dry burn it with atm but I will try this first and see how it goes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stoney View Post
    what attys
    what juice
    got an 18650 ?
    Attys - ce style cearo, kanger MT3 (w/ego/510 adaptor), DCT carto tank and juice is a 50/50 24mg mix (have stuck with the same juice since it started happening). Haven't bought an 18650 yet, that's one of next paydays' commitments.

    Quote Originally Posted by Stoney View Post
    oh, vamo is not well sealed either .. juice on the board is a strong possibility.
    I'll pull the head off when I return home. The whole set with batteries,charger clearo etc set me back $70 so I'm not too fussed about some tinkering as I can replace the unit itself reasonably cheaply.

    re stacking the 350's, I've only tried it because I could :P but have generally been running in single battery config after reading several warnings.

    Thanks Stoney
    margyb likes this.

  6. #6
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    Found a temp fix

    Stood it on its head for a day

    no dropping resistance so it must have been taking on juice inside the 510 connector

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by lheamfrg View Post
    I have been wiping everything out after some leakage with the BCC. haven't got anything I can dry burn it with atm but I will try this first and see how it goes.



    Attys - ce style cearo, kanger MT3 (w/ego/510 adaptor), DCT carto tank and juice is a 50/50 24mg mix (have stuck with the same juice since it started happening). Haven't bought an 18650 yet, that's one of next paydays' commitments.



    I'll pull the head off when I return home. The whole set with batteries,charger clearo etc set me back $70 so I'm not too fussed about some tinkering as I can replace the unit itself reasonably cheaply.

    re stacking the 350's, I've only tried it because I could :P but have generally been running in single battery config after reading several warnings.

    Thanks Stoney
    you dont need anything special to do a dry burn, all a dry burn is is firing the device and letting the coil heat up while it has no acces to liquid so it will burn away any crud build up as soon as you can start seeing the coil qlowing red across the while line it should be good just be carefull not to over do it as u can burn the wicks
    http://sincemylastcigarette.com/bann...12_default.png
    So far only about $1200 spent on vapeing

  8. #8
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    burn the wicks ?

    hell, i overdo it every time. its the whole point of doing it. f you stop when it gets red hot, thats like cooking a steak by getting the pan hot, touching the meat to it, calling it done. you want the sucker not only well done in this case but cooked to smoke.

    why are people still convinced after 3 years of the same garbage rumours, despite facts and evidence .. that wicks still melt or burn ?

    its SILICA .. melting point 2000 odd degrees, heater gets it to a MAX of 800 or so dry.
    it does NOT burn, melt, dissolve, corrode, explode .. it MAY fracture under the heater, but thats it.


    disclaimer: steaks should be medium rare, cows are designed like that.
    Fatman likes this.
    In order of useful: Provari V2 and V1, vamo, eGo twist, Katana v3, Hex, Orion v2, LavaTube, eGo x 6, VMAX, 510N, Tick V2, Tick V1, noEgo 18650, noEgo 14650 , Indulgence x 2, 905 6v mod, KR808D



  9. #9
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    It took me over 3 hours (on and off to let the thing cool) to dry burn a coil yesterday, Mr Bleak complained about it, when I looked it was just a black blob, it went red long ago but there is still crud on it, must say those grotty ones are kind of satisfying to dry burn.

    Juicy Vamo... I've been meaning to ask, can you clean them with an iso like the provaris or is it just a matter of grabbing another one?

  10. #10
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    but there is still crud on it, must say those grotty ones are kind of satisfying to dry burn.


    I have had some success giving the crud a poke with a straightened paperclip. This is after the dry burn when all the smoke has finished. Its just ash. When the coil is clear, just a quick rinse in whiskey and good to go. Be gentle??
    Because I trust no-one Who tells me FACTS with no proof

 

 
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