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Thread: Yet another Protank II coil rebuild issue..

  1. #1
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    Question Yet another Protank II coil rebuild issue..

    Hey everyone,

    New to Aussievapers, seems to be alot of good information on here and a great community. Hoping to get some advice in regards to some Protank coil issues..Been rebuilding now for a few weeks and been having problems pretty much straight off the bat.

    Started by grabbing myself some 1mm silica wick from the good folks at VapingCobra and decided on grabbing a reel of 30gauge A1 Kanthal from eBay. (Wasn't sure if 30 gauge was the greatest choice looking back but anyhow, better find a use for it I spose because I now have a shit load of it haha.)

    The most recent success I have had has been 11 wraps around a needle then compressing and torching into a nano coil giving me 1.8ohms. Doubled over 1mm silica and threaded through the coil with one piece of 1mm as a flavour wick. Sounds great yeah? Until I noticed a shit load of flooding. Been using 100% VG liquid and what I think might be happening is that after 5 minutes or so of vaping, the 1.8ohm nano coil seems to be heating the tank/juice to a point where its thinning the viscosity of liquid to a point where rendering the wicks too few? Being that 100% VG is thick, 1 flavour wick is usually enough to insure no dry hits; but when it gets hot is the problem?

    Hopefully the ball draining essay I've written above makes sense to someone, any advice would be greatly appreciated
    Thanks guys

  2. #2
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    Ive been using 2ohm mircos in evods and protanks with cotton and zero flooding ever since. I also remove the little silicon cap. Once I figured out the right amount of cotton to use so it blocks the holes but not to tightly its been perfect. Thats if you dont mind using cotton instead of silica.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry89 View Post
    . Been using 100% VG liquid and what I think might be happening is that after 5 minutes or so of vaping, the 1.8ohm nano coil seems to be heating the tank/juice to a point where its thinning the viscosity of liquid to a point where rendering the wicks too few? Being that 100% VG is thick, 1 flavour wick is usually enough to insure no dry hits; but when it gets hot is the problem?

    Hopefully the ball draining essay I've written above makes sense to someone, any advice would be greatly appreciated
    Thanks guys
    It doesn't sound like enough wick to block the holes to me. I wrap on a really soft 3mm silica, and add a piece of 2.5mm wick on top of that. This is pretty close to the factory heads but with slightly improved wicking due the the really soft 3mm.

    You could try adding another 1mm flavour wick and see if that helps.

    If it leaks when full then there's definitely not enough wick. If it leaks when half full then you are close, just add a little more.

    If you manage to stop the leaking but you then have a problem with it not wicking fast enough, try add a couple of drops of distilled water to your VG juice to thin it, and turn the rubber cap upside down. You might have to keep it warm so the juice doesn't get too thick.

    Your coil is a little unconventional, being of 30g. This means you are using more wraps and may run out of space, unless it's a microcoil.

    The usual coil (or so it seems) is 6 wraps of 34g for a coil of 2.2 ohms. I highly recommend 2.2 ohms for these because it's great to use on a mech or a 3.7V fixed battery so it's a great all-rounder.
    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

  4. #4
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    i have no probs hand wrapping 4 or 5 wrap of 32g around 2mm folded wick. I got an rba for doing more 'experimental' stuff. protank's are just very convenient, maybe you are being too ambitious imho

  5. #5
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    I'm really interested in making coils for my Protanks. I bought a lot.

    Are there any vids you'd recommend? I watched Grimm Green's one and it looked easy enough, but I want to make them good.

    Any devices I can get to make really nice looking coils?

    *Edit - I have some silica wick coming in - is that alright?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabricator4 View Post
    It doesn't sound like enough wick to block the holes to me. I wrap on a really soft 3mm silica, and add a piece of 2.5mm wick on top of that. This is pretty close to the factory heads but with slightly improved wicking due the the really soft 3mm.

    You could try adding another 1mm flavour wick and see if that helps.

    If it leaks when full then there's definitely not enough wick. If it leaks when half full then you are close, just add a little more.

    If you manage to stop the leaking but you then have a problem with it not wicking fast enough, try add a couple of drops of distilled water to your VG juice to thin it, and turn the rubber cap upside down. You might have to keep it warm so the juice doesn't get too thick.

    Your coil is a little unconventional, being of 30g. This means you are using more wraps and may run out of space, unless it's a microcoil.

    The usual coil (or so it seems) is 6 wraps of 34g for a coil of 2.2 ohms. I highly recommend 2.2 ohms for these because it's great to use on a mech or a 3.7V fixed battery so it's a great all-rounder.
    Thats the thing, i've got it setup perfectly while the juice is cold, a soon as the tank gets hot(due to the heat of the microcoil) - hello flooding. 11 wraps of 30g into a microcoil does a good job on the first few drags while cold; vapour production, flavour and throat hit. You'd recommend I piss off the 30g and grab some 34g? Is there any other configuration with the 30g that will be effective?

    I've got a K100 mech on the way from FT. I would of thought 1.8ohms would be optimal for fixed 3.7v? Do you get good performance with 2.2?
    Thanks fabricator4.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by McVapen View Post
    Ive been using 2ohm mircos in evods and protanks with cotton and zero flooding ever since. I also remove the little silicon cap. Once I figured out the right amount of cotton to use so it blocks the holes but not to tightly its been perfect. Thats if you dont mind using cotton instead of silica.
    McVapen, I did give cotton a crack. Grabbed some 100% organic, gave it a boil in distilled water and worked great for a few hours with still abit of a funky taste. Then maybe 5-6 hours later opened my coil head to see what was going on in there aaaand was black as the ace of spades.. Thought cotton would of lasted longer then that?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by timmah View Post
    I'm really interested in making coils for my Protanks. I bought a lot.

    Are there any vids you'd recommend? I watched Grimm Green's one and it looked easy enough, but I want to make them good.

    Any devices I can get to make really nice looking coils?

    *Edit - I have some silica wick coming in - is that alright?
    Whatever you do timmah, don't grab 30g kanthal haha. Maybe grab some 1 & 2mm silica and 34g. Lots of tutorials on youtube regarding Protank coils, grimmgreen, pbusardo, riptripper ect ect.
    timmah likes this.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry89 View Post
    Thats the thing, i've got it setup perfectly while the juice is cold, a soon as the tank gets hot(due to the heat of the microcoil) - hello flooding. 11 wraps of 30g into a microcoil does a good job on the first few drags while cold; vapour production, flavour and throat hit. You'd recommend I piss off the 30g and grab some 34g? Is there any other configuration with the 30g that will be effective?

    I've got a K100 mech on the way from FT. I would of thought 1.8ohms would be optimal for fixed 3.7v? Do you get good performance with 2.2?
    Thanks fabricator4.
    Which is understandable, since VG is a lot thicker when it's cold.

    If it floods it indicates there's not enough wick to keep the juice out. Thin the juice with a few drops of distilled water, and add a bit more wick. It's a fine balance between flooding and wicking enough to keep up with you.

    Regarding the volts/ohms, Kanger ship a card with the Protanks with ohms/volts recommendations for the factory heads. The combinations they list basically equate to somewhere between 6 and 6.5 watts. The first thing most people do is throw the card in the bin and try to run them at 8 watts like they do everything else, and this usually results in burning. 2.2 ohms is about 6.5 watts at 3.8 volts, so it's a great resistance to run with mechanicals as long as you are careful with a fresh battery. I find it's fine if you pulse the fire button in this case, or take shorter puffs. The protank factory heads work great, but with few idiosyncrasies. Some people can live with them, others can not.

    A microcoil on silica wick doesn't really make sense, since the efficiency of the wick is limited by the silica. Most people doing this are using cotton wicks of some description to increase the efficiency of the juice wicking. Again, you have to get the balance between flooding the thing and getting the most efficient wicking, and in this case it's usually controlled by how much cotton you use in the wick.

    I have a blog on using factory protank heads which won't be directly useful for you making microcoils, however it does deal with some of the principles and might still be useful information for you:
    Bottom coil clearomisers
    Last edited by fabricator4; 21-10-13 at 09:22 AM. Reason: spelling and grammar
    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by harry89 View Post
    McVapen, I did give cotton a crack. Grabbed some 100% organic, gave it a boil in distilled water and worked great for a few hours with still abit of a funky taste. Then maybe 5-6 hours later opened my coil head to see what was going on in there aaaand was black as the ace of spades.. Thought cotton would of lasted longer then that?
    I pretty much get a good week out of mine before swapping out the cotton and thats even if iam just vaping on the same flavour and tank all week.
    I always put some juice on the cotton after its installed in the coil because one dry pull and itll burn. My juices are 50/50 blends and are moderate to light in colour. Another thing I find helps on protanks and evods especially if you fill them right up is after a few hit I quickly tip them upside down and undo the threads enough til I hear a little pop then retighten and I find I have no problems after that.
    The only leaking I used to have with the protank was when it got under a quarter left in the tank. Ive only been vaping for 6 months so hope some of those ideas are helpful and iam steering you down the wrong path, iam sure the pros will correct me.
    Rip Trippers on youtube does good tuts on these types of builds, funny guy too

 

 
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