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  1. #1
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    Protank coil trouble: Is there something i missed?

    My problem is a burning taste with the rubber insulator.
    I've tried about 10 times with 30/32g on multiple original coil bodys. Voltage low or high - taste remains. I've tried twisting the tails but still the burning remains.
    I do understand that the stock coils are res/non-res wire and that to get rid of the issue i would need a wire welder or joiner of some type.

    If this is true then why does every man and his dog have a youtube video wasting my time about how easy it is to re-coil these things without non-res wire?

    Which brings me to the subject, did i miss something?

  2. #2
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    not to state the bl00dy obvious but have you tried it on lower voltage/wattage

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by tugboatofdeath View Post
    not to state the bl00dy obvious but have you tried it on lower voltage/wattage
    Yes mate. Most of the coils tend to be 2ohm+ and i'm only using a little evic for these.
    I would normally start around 3.4/3.6v to break in something 2ohm or higher. Once she gets warm its unvapable, even at 3.6v with little vapour.
    Sometimes it seems good at first dialed down but when its turned up (4v) for a semi-decent vape it returns.

  4. #4
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    When you lower your coil in the cup with both wires sticking out underneath cross the positive wire over diagonally close to the negative before putting in the positive pin

  5. #5
    lou
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    Quote Originally Posted by ewok View Post
    Yes mate. Most of the coils tend to be 2ohm+ and i'm only using a little evic for these.
    I would normally start around 3.4/3.6v to break in something 2ohm or higher. Once she gets warm its unvapable, even at 3.6v with little vapour.
    Sometimes it seems good at first dialed down but when its turned up (4v) for a semi-decent vape it returns.
    Don't know what type of coil you're using, but I have found using a contact miro coil work the best. if the coils are in contact with each other the legs don't get very hot if at all. Try giving that a go. Hope this helps. I do like to use 30g on protank.
    Last edited by lou; 08-11-13 at 06:54 PM.

  6. #6
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    Are you winding a horizontal or vertical coil, as verticals can suffer from this problem if not done properly. Mine are horizontal, contact coils using 30AWG kanthal wrapped around a 2mm drill (no twists, no no-res wire).
    Ignore the Super-moderator tag in my profile, I have resigned from that position but admin have not updated my profile as yet

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtadmin View Post
    Are you winding a horizontal or vertical coil, as verticals can suffer from this problem if not done properly. Mine are horizontal, contact coils using 30AWG kanthal wrapped around a 2mm drill (no twists, no no-res wire).
    All horizontal coils on 2mm silica, nothing fancy.

    I did try a small nano coil i saw on riptrippers wrapped around a needle, turned out pretty low, so used a mech and still resulted in burnt rubber taste.

    I'll have a play with moving the positive wire across, why not.

  8. #8
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    I was gonna suggest twisting but yr onto that...I've been using 32g ( I think)..twisting the hell out of it right up to coil...with good success but as with everything fiddly, I got the shits an dumped the idea...they last for ages if you dump the floating wick daily n dry burn, replace floating wick with good 1-2mm silica...mind you that's using nets, so daily is good...failing that just buy a gut load of heads, cheap as...a real arse ache fiddling round trying to re coil them..

  9. #9
    lou
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    Vertical coil in a protank? How do you wick it?

  10. #10
    Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by lou View Post
    Vertical coil in a protank? How do you wick it?
    Around it, not through it ...

    Edit: see here for an example
    Last edited by gtadmin; 08-11-13 at 08:54 PM.
    Ignore the Super-moderator tag in my profile, I have resigned from that position but admin have not updated my profile as yet

 

 

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