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Thread: First flooding..

  1. #1
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    First flooding..

    Hi guys!

    So finally, all my parts came in yesterday and i have officially started vaping! woohoo!
    Everything worked perfect from the getgo. I have a provari mini and a kanger protank2. I was vaping heaps of smoke and enjoyed every bit of it!

    Anyways, today, my order for the air control part arrived and straight away i chucked it on before i headed out. It too was working well if not better! ..however, about an hour later, everything just stopped working. Its like there was no connection between the provari mini to the protank 2. Even if i try to check the Ohms, it will say LO. I wasnt too sure what happened, but i figured it could be flooding.

    So after i arrived home, i cleaned everything and gave it another try. Still wasnt working. I switched it back to the original config without the air controller and it started to work again. So, does anyone know why if i have the air controller, it loses connection to the power?

    Also, having the original connection in again, i feel like im tasting some specks of the liquid here and there now. Like, i almost can taste it more on my tongue. Is this normal?

    Thanks!

    -Bryan

  2. #2
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    Yep. It is raising your atty too far and not making contact with the firing pin inside the ProVari, it is very common when using airflow or beauty rings on these devices. Most RBA and RDA atty's have an adjustable centre pin on the base that you can unscrew a little bit to get your contact back. I can't confirm with the Protank as I don't have one, but if it does just unscrew it a few turns and you will get connection back. If it doesn't you don't have many options, either not using the air ring, or using some very light sand paper to take the top off the airflow ring to allow contact again.
    There's 10 types of people in this world that understand binary: those who do and those who don't.

  3. #3
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    Thanks jman!

    I checked out the protank ccoil, and luckily i can pull out the pin a bit. That solved the connection issue! Thank you!
    I also dismantled the coil, and noticed that my wick has pretty much disintegrated lol! Does anyone know how this happens?. Anyways, so that was the reason for some flooding/gurgling issues. I changed my coil, and doubled up on an o-ring and it works fine now with no leaking (.. i hope.. lol.. i still cant get the liquid taste out of my mouth so i dunno if its still leaking or not. haha)


    I think i will need to purchase my own wick. Maybe a thicker one that comes out a little more. Are there any recommendations on wicks?

    Thanks!

    -Bryan

  4. #4
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    First flooding..by bleed.
    That made me tilt my head in a quizzical manner when I saw it!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JenJ View Post
    That made me tilt my head in a quizzical manner when I saw it!
    hahahahaha.. oh man.. must be the time of the month.. lol
    JenJ likes this.

  6. #6
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    Hi Bleed,
    I'm using the Provari with Pro Tank 2s and airflow valves. Regarding the connection using the airflow valve, I've noticed that you need to make sure the coil is screwed down properly, and be careful if you're adjusting the airflow, not to slightly unscrew either the whole unit from the Provari, or the Pro Tank from the airflow valve, this will cause the symptoms that you experienced - I know, because I did it myself

    The flooding occurs with PTs because you lost connection and therefore no vapourisation was occurring. Because you were sucking on it, juice gets pulled into the wicking area at the bottom and then oozes out - or up, as you've discovered.

    I've really only ever used PT 2s (recently), Mini PT 2s (mostly) and Evods - they're all from the same 'family'. All of the coils for these guys are the same, they consist of a wire wrapped silica wick and one, two or possibly three 'flavour' wicks. Take that old one apart by removing the silicon grommet and then pulling the chimney off, and have a look.

    As far as wicking goes with these coils, the nature of your juice kind of determines what you do with the wicks. Juices that are higher in VG generally vapourise better with either no or 1 flavour wick, as they tend to be thicker. Juices higher in PG will need 2 or more flavour wicks, and you may have to do some experimenting if this is the type of juice that you like.

    So putting a fatter wick (ie., more flavour wick) is likely to be effective if your juice is high PG. If you vape higher VG, not necessarily so.

    Also, although we're heading for the cooler weather, you will find that in the warmer weather you may need more flavour wicks as the heat tends to thin juice out, making flooding more of an issue - irrespective of high VG or not.

    For example, I vape 50/50 PG/VG and use no flavour wicks, but I also recoil my coils and use cotton wool as a wick. When (or if) you feel ready, this is really worth trying as it makes a difference to not only the performance of the PTs, but the taste as well. Also, if you want to change juices, then it's easy, take out the cotton, rinse, dry burn and pop in some more cotton wool.

    Hope this is helpful, cheers Deb

  7. #7
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    Hi Mathy/Deb!

    Thanks for all the tips and info. That was really helpful! I have a better understanding of this now. I love the learning curve here, so hands on! haha.
    I think i might give the cotton wool a try. I watched this youtube clip and it seems easy enough. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1OD0FkO6Nw

    Is there a certain type of cotton wool i should use? Will the wool burn a lot faster? Compared to the wick, would i need to change over the wool a lot more frequently?

    Thanks!

    -Bryan

  8. #8
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    Hi Bleed, the cotton doesn't burn as such, more a 'singe'. That's not the best of instructional videos, have a look at one of these.

    Let's Rebuild a Kanger Pro Tank

    Mini Pro tank Micro Coil Rebuild

    With the standard coil and silica wick, you can't just pull the wick out and replace with cotton, there's only 4/5 wraps of wire and it's tight, you'll destroy the coil trying to get it out. Maybe watch the vids and order some 28G or 30G Kanthal wire and some sterilised cotton balls. You'll also need tweezers, cigarette lighter, needle nose pliers and something to wrap a coil on (I've used a 1.5mm drill bit). You can test the resistance of your coil by mounting it into the Pro Tank base (when finished) and then screwing it onto the Provari and go to Check Ohms.

    I see you're in Melbourne, Vapeking is probably a good bet for a quick delivery of wire and cotton wool
    bleed likes this.

  9. #9
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    Woah!! Thanks Mathy!
    Okay, it looks easy enough to try it out. If i fail, i always have back ups. It also made me realize what also may have happened that caused it not to fire. While looking at my coil again, i noticed that my coil was moved (maybe while i was washing it), and it was touching the side metal parts which is why it was showing up as LO.

    Thanks so much! I might give it a go next week

    -Bryan
    Mathy likes this.

  10. #10
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    Good luck and have fun!
    bleed likes this.

 

 

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