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Thread: Mod Shorting

  1. #1
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    Mod Shorting

    Can someone please explain to me what would cause a mod to short?
    The firing button on my mech has recently started getting hot after a few seconds of use.

    I've tested the resistance (without battery), positive on the positive pin and neutral on the body of the mod, getting a reading of around 1.2.

    Can someone please tell me what I should be looking for?

    edit: I've read some other posts regarding this but I thought it best to open my own.

  2. #2
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    the coil? the pos end as it goes through the baseplate ? or the switch internals?




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  3. #3
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    1. what resistance reading do you get with the probes shorted.
    I ask this because most cheap multimeters have some reading, up to 1.2 ohms, and it might be that you are measuring.

    2. If your switch has 1.2 ohms of resistance there's the cause of heat.
    Disassemble the switch and clean all components, ensure good/great physical alignment on re-assembly


    3. We can give more explicit answers with a clue as to type and model of mod.
    Robray likes this.


  4. #4
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    As MrG said, the internal resistance could be .8, so with a 1.2 ohm coil you could be running it at .4 or lower.
    Give us a pic of your coil too. Will give us a great idea.
    supporter of genuine mods and attys


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrGruffy View Post
    1. what resistance reading do you get with the probes shorted.
    I ask this because most cheap multimeters have some reading, up to 1.2 ohms, and it might be that you are measuring.

    2. If your switch has 1.2 ohms of resistance there's the cause of heat.
    Disassemble the switch and clean all components, ensure good/great physical alignment on re-assembly


    3. We can give more explicit answers with a clue as to type and model of mod.

    With them shorted i get 0.6.
    Its a Kylin clone from Fasttech. Using a V5 clone and a V12 clone.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssstahly View Post
    As MrG said, the internal resistance could be .8, so with a 1.2 ohm coil you could be running it at .4 or lower.
    Give us a pic of your coil too. Will give us a great idea.
    Sorry I ripped out the coils

  7. #7
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    bet your switch stays cool without a coil, worth a check for random shorts, possibly in the top cap.
    davee and ssstahly like this.


  8. #8
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    What kind of coil was it? Microcoil with cotton? Try build one at around 1.2 AFTER you have taken out the .6. So a 1.8 reading in your multimeter. Then again as MrG said, make sure the coil is free from the deck, topcap and anything else. The coil should only touch where it connects to the - & + posts.
    supporter of genuine mods and attys


  9. #9
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    There should be only one area that gets hot, and that's the coil, if there is heat elsewhere there is resistance, that means a dirty switch, clean the switch contacts and that should solve your problem....

  10. #10
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    So I've built one on a Kayfun clone that reads 1.2 on an ohm tester (and provari). Took the switch apart, gave it a clean and put it back together - though it looked pretty much spotless, the mod is only a few weeks old.
    So far the button hasn't changed temperature yet.

    Is there anything else I should be looking for?

 

 
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