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Thread: Optimising Mechanical mods (Clone variants)

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micdeez View Post
    Cheers guys.

    I suppose my expectations of a 1:1 Hcigar copy are a little deflated considering the repairs I had/have to make to get it at a satisfactory level.

    I'm really not that excited with my impending FT order now! A Stingray and Nemmy was ordered, amongst other bits and pieces.
    I've read the original nemesis suffers from the same issues as the clone


    ]6⁹.12[

  2. #22
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    Optimising Mechanical mods (Clone variants)

    Doesn't the magnet switch fix that? I'd be so pissed if a genuine mod has issues like these... You're already paying an arm and a leg for a simple metal tube with contacts.


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    Last edited by Micdeez; 15-04-14 at 05:57 PM.

  3. #23
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    all of my nemmys work flawlessly, no crunchy buttons no threads being grindy, i have 1 with magnets and 1 with the spring. both work. spring is slightly softer on the throw

  4. #24
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    This is the thing with mechanical things. When they are a good design made well with good tolerances and close attention to surface finish then they will work well. This goes for any mechanical thing whether it an engine, clock, haulpak or a mechanical mod. But when they are not made with close tolerances and finish then things can and will go wrong. Luckily for people buying mech mods there is only a few things that can really cause problems.
    As we all know they are basically a tube with two end caps one with a thread to take your atty and the other the mech switch and the mech switch is going to be the one thing to cause most of the grief because it has moving parts. For me these things are not an issue as I earn a living from repairing mechanical components. But that doesn't help the average vaper that has a dodgy mech mod.
    The answer is not always to buy the most expensive product ether as I have seen so many mistakes made at all levels of equipment.

    There will always be a way to make these work properly but it might be a bit more involved than what you want to or are willing to do. But ether way the first thing that you need to do is to work out exactly what the problem is and then you can have a plan of attack on how to go about fixing the problem.

    Cheers
    Midlife
    Last edited by Midlife; 15-04-14 at 09:04 PM.
    Micdeez likes this.

  5. #25
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    I've been working on the switch and so far I think its been working pretty good.

    I dremel'd the washer thing that goes up and down. Its more polished and seems to be smoother. Compressed the spring more and will look to shorten and adjust the throw.

    I do admit this is quite fun.
    Midlife likes this.

  6. #26
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    I didn't know where to put this, but here is the Aqua with a dual coil build @ 1.02ohm. That's 4.1A, 17W which should be safe vaping on a 18650 AW.

    They both heat up in tandem which is great. The Aqua was a pain for a bit because of no screw holes but it was manageable.




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    Fatman likes this.

  7. #27
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    if you've got the origin clone, run the aqua in hybrid mode. it works well.


    i too have the FT origin clone. the switch isn't so much of a pain in the arse, more of a itch on the gooch.

    it has a tendency to unscrew itself and become loose and floppy. also with a full aqua on top the magnets aren't quite strong enough to keep it from self firing. using it now with a little dripper and it's fine. getting rid of battery rattle is a little annoying in that you can only do it with the plastic ring around the switch. so any adjustment for rattle needs to be followed by adjustment for throw.

  8. #28
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    Here she is.... Vapes beautiful so far. Time will tell if it will leak but I stuffed good amount of cotton in all 4 channels.

    The hybrid looks so good.... Still need to improve that switch but will do tomorrow if I can. No battery rattle after adjustments in the delrin cap.

    Not a bad build for a novice. So much vapour this is a first for me!




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    avtek likes this.

 

 
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