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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Oct 2010
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    657

    Temperature Sensing Coils Discussion

    Thought I'd start a discussion thread about Temperature Sensing Coils (TSC), both pre-built and DIY, used with the Evolve DNA 40 chip.

    So I've had my Vapor Flask DNA 40 for a week or so and have tried out a couple of nickel builds(orchid dual coil and Magma single coil) and also the new Nautilus BVC TSC in my Silo tank.

    I was hoping the Silo with the TSC's would be a great daily setup, but I'm a little disappointed with it. What I've found is they don't seem to be wicking well enough for much over 13W.
    I first started around 20W but was continually hitting Temperature Protect (TP). After some fiddling I've ended up with 13W at 470F, I still hit TP but not very often. I'd like to up the watts but these coils just can't keep up.
    Afaik the wick in these some kind of ceramic fibre so should be able to handle higher temperatures, but I don't know how high.

    I'm guessing those who have been using the Kanthal BVC's at much higher Watts have been running higher temperatures.........maybe not, I just bumped the TP to 550F and tried 20W, not bad, then 25W BANG dry hit!! I haven't had one of them in a long time.......that really fracken hurt!
    So 550F is too high for this wick.......think I'll stick to 470F

    Hopefully the Aspire TSC heads will be better, when they eventually come out.......I've run them at 40W and the wicking keeps up!

    So what have you tried and what are your thoughts?

    Cheers
    Daily Setup: Modded 3400mah FDV iStick, Orchid v4 RTA
    Daily Juice: Vaporeyes - Lazer Lombardi
    In the mail: Vapor Flask DNA40

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Mar 2011
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    across the deetch
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    My first temp control build is a kayfun black edition clone (btw as nice threading and build as the genuine lite, 3.1 and v4 i own) using 30 gauge lightning vapes ni200 on a vaporflask.

    Just got the wire today, did a spaced coil, it reads .16 ohm. I've set the watts at 13-14 and experimented with temps of 400-550.

    Hitting the limiter every time i'm not pulling like i'm trying to suck a pool ball through a garden hose, have wound out the airflow to fully open but its a damn good vape. 400 was way too cool kinda like a perfect tasting ego from way back in the day, 450 was getting there but still not hitting 14 watts, 500 peaking about 12 watts then pulling back, 550 seems to be the sweet spot for flavour.

    I just hope I'm not sucking down too much nickel, anyone know what the max safe temp is supposed to be?

    I am slurping down max vg which may explain the temps. I have been building kayfuns for a while so know how to wick them properly.

    no hot spots on the 7 watt dry fire (only fired til the wire changed temp in the middle then pulsed a couple of times for a second)

    How are you finding the flavour Macca?

    Total tally on gear, juice and geeky things so far = ~10000 (oops)
    DNA40/Kayfun Whore; Vaporflask/Vaporshark. 3.1, lite, v4 and a bunch of clones. Fetish for cotton and ni200. Freebasing/vaping Attylube GUV. I've caught the dragon.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Oct 2010
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    657
    I'd say nickel is safe till something over 600F. I'm sure they tested to find a safe limit,

    Loving the flavor
    Daily Setup: Modded 3400mah FDV iStick, Orchid v4 RTA
    Daily Juice: Vaporeyes - Lazer Lombardi
    In the mail: Vapor Flask DNA40

  4. #4
    Senior Member
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    across the deetch
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    Quote Originally Posted by MACCA350 View Post
    I'd say nickel is safe till something over 600F. I'm sure they tested to find a safe limit,

    Loving the flavor
    Didn't realise there was so much time where the coil was getting overtorched, you can both see and taste it. glad i have 2 dna40s

    Total tally on gear, juice and geeky things so far = ~10000 (oops)
    DNA40/Kayfun Whore; Vaporflask/Vaporshark. 3.1, lite, v4 and a bunch of clones. Fetish for cotton and ni200. Freebasing/vaping Attylube GUV. I've caught the dragon.

  5. #5
    AVF Newbie | Be nice to me
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    Geelong
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    16
    I haven't had my DNA 40 for a week, but my experience with the aspire, and aertank coils is they don't cope with anything over 12.5 w. I keep getting temperature protected messages on the screen if I go over that. I tried my only original dripper, a CLT v1 with dual coils, 32 gauge ni200 11 wrap coils 0.18 ohm, and still got temperature protected messages on the screen if I went over that. My last attempt was the CLT with dual 30 gauge 12 or13 wrap coils, coming in at 0.13 ohms, and it works well at up to 30w, but I'll have to down the nicotine as I've been running about 12mg juice, and usually do mouth to lung, while this is only good with a direct lung hit. It only works with a lung hit, and it's definitely too much nicotine for me.
    I've been really impressed with the temperature protected function of the DNA 40 as I've run both an aerotank, and a mini nautilus dry with no dry hits. You just get less vapor, and when it's refilled, it's just less vapor, until it wicks.
    I've also set up a kayfun 3.1 clone with a 0.13 to 0.17 coil, depends on how long it's been on my XPV as to what it reads, and this is what is working for me at the moment. I run it at 12w to 18w and it suits my style of vaping.
    As I tried to say before, these things are new, temperature protection is something I think works well, good on you evolv. Now I just have to learn how to use it.

  6. #6
    AVF Regular
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    Jun 2014
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    Found a little datasheet -

    http://resistancewire.com/uploads/pa..._NI200_MET.pdf

    They say max safe continuous operating temp 500C (which is 932F), so limiting it to 600F is probably a good safe point.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    657
    My new nickle OCC coils for the SubTank arrived and I'm having an issue,tried two coils and they're acting the same.

    Put the new coil in and it vapes like a champ. Runs cool 350-370F at 22W and produces a tone of vape. Put it down for a while (10-15min) then have another hit and it hits temp protect and throttles back to 10-15W and produces **** all vape, and it's not hot so it's not actually reaching the set temp.

    To fix it I have to unscrew the tank and force the dna40 to reset the resistance setting with the 'new coil up' message. Then it vapes fine again.

    Did a quick google and a thread on ecf has another guy with the same problem.

    I think these coils are fucked.
    I think the dna40 chip resets the cold resistance setting when it sits for a while because the new coil read .16 then after sitting for a while it reads .14 the problem must be in this new cold ohm setting.

    Not happy.
    Daily Setup: Modded 3400mah FDV iStick, Orchid v4 RTA
    Daily Juice: Vaporeyes - Lazer Lombardi
    In the mail: Vapor Flask DNA40

  8. #8
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Townsville
    Posts
    5
    I was having similar issues with my setup (rDNA 40 +Subtank mini) where I had to unscrew it and reset it. Found the temp to be too low where I was before. They really need to be up around the 450-500 Fahrenheit and about 21ish watts to run smoothly with the airflow wide open. Also helps to have a lower nic juice and to be doing lung hits to suck more air through it. Still hitting temp protect but it still produces plenty of flavour and vapour.

  9. #9
    AVF Regular
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    Oct 2014
    Location
    Hobart, TAS
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    206
    Quote Originally Posted by MACCA350 View Post
    I think the dna40 chip resets the cold resistance setting when it sits for a while because the new coil read .16 then after sitting for a while it reads .14 the problem must be in this new cold ohm setting.
    The DNA40 goes into “refinement” when idle. It monitors the coil resistance and updates the ohm reading by comparing the temperature it reads based on the coil resistance and the temperature of the DNA40 board itself. It's not uncommon to see it change by 0.01-0.02Ω.

    I've heard that both the DNA40 and the clone can be reset by removing the batteries, replacing them and then forcing the "new coil" process. I see a difference with the clone for certain. I'm only guessing but I suspect this forces the DNA40 to recalibrate its internal temperature scale and should be done when the mod and coil have been given time to return to room temperature.

    I'm only having marginal success with the TP OCC sub-tank coils, they don't seem to wick well. I've had great success using a Lemo with a standard spaced twisted nickel coil and the sub-tank RBA section with a standard 30ga nickel build. Both wicked very well and didn't bounce off the temperature protection limit like the TP OCC heads.

    Don't forget that the temperature scale is determined by what it THINKS the coil temperature is on initialisation. If it's warmer (or colder) the scale will be out. As the TP setting uses this scale the TP will also be out, hitting TP earlier or later than required.
    Last edited by Imho; 02-03-15 at 09:13 AM.
    ---



  10. #10
    AVF Regular
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
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    165
    I also have a similar issue with TC OCC coils.
    My first coil was miserable. When I first screwed it in, VS read 0.25 ohm. I set my VS at 400F and 23W started vaping. But even with the biggest air hole open after 1-2 vapes it almost felt like dry hits and hurt my neck so hard while it didn't even get close to 400F. So I had to stop. I screwed out and in again and it read 0.18, but same issue. Harsh metal smell and dry hits (although it wasn't really a dry hit because the cotton wasn't burnt and the temp protection was working just fine).

    I changed to my second coil and it first read 0.19ohm. Left it there for about 15 mins to have dinner and came back and had exactly the same issue as what MACCA described above. So again took out the atty and screwed in again and pressed + for new coil, then it suddenly start reading 0.24ohm. But at least I can now vape and get lots of clouds and okay flavour.

    VS seems to be working perfectly and this looks like an issue with the TC OCC coils.

 

 
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