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Thread: DNA 40 Problem.. Why do I need to fire up twice to get a decent vape

  1. #1
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    DNA 40 Problem.. Why do I need to fire up twice to get a decent vape

    Hello Everyone.. I just bought Hana DNA 40 Clone 1:1 original board and I noticed some weird problems

    First problem

    The first time I press power button 20% of desired vapes comes up and I need to follow it up with another power press to get a decent vape, compared to my provari 3 it provide a decent vape from the first time ( Same watts used and Atomizer)

    Second problem

    Temperature control is not accurate. sometimes you press the power button and it shows Temperature reached and no vapes produced until you remove the battery and reinstall to get it going again
    Using nickel 200 on 0.12 OHM on kayfun v4

    Third Problem is with atomizers:

    Screw attached to kayfun v4 and magma RBA is eating my 510 connection on both p3 and hana Mods, compared to aspire nautilus that have a soft connector, is there anyway we can replace those screws?
    Last edited by itslike123; 20-02-15 at 12:01 AM.

  2. #2
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    The DNA 40 temperature control and Kayfun 4 problem is notorious. It has to do with the KF4 spring that carries positive current from the centre post to the positive build deck post. Many people have had problems using Ni200 temperature control. Unfortunately the small variations due to the spring often don't work well with the precision needed for temperature control.

    Many people have solved this issue with a solid connector sleeve that surrounds the spring, and provides stable contact when juice control is open. Kayfun V4 "Spring Update" - By Steam Tuners - SteamTuners P.C.
    I'm sure a few other manufacturers have them too; and you can make your own.

    There is a gold plated KF4 spring upgrade available from SM, C9V, and a few other places that I can't remember off the top of my head (some are even offering the spring upgrade for free to their KF4 customers). Unfortunately Intaste doesn't seem to have them yet.

    I can't say however, whether the gold plated spring is a complete fix for the temperature control issue. But I do know that the sleeves can't be used with the gold spring, as its larger than the original silver plated one.


    If you're talking about the male 510 on atomizers, the only thing you could do with the KF4 is to get the P3 hybrid connector to replace the entire universal connector bottom section #A3. I don't think there's anything that can be done about the Magma's standard 510.
    itslike123 likes this.

  3. #3
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    The DNA40 is a clone... so who knows what crap it will put out. Roll a dice.
    I assume the Kayfun is a clone too then? Throw it out and keep buying more I guess?

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    The Dna 40 board is original.. just the box is not, had to buy it of my friend because I couldn't wait for original one to come after one month.. the kayfun is original.. the 510 damage is happening on both units provari 3 and dna 40 so this have nothing to do if its clone or not
    maybe the temp control problem as kaoself said mentioned have to do with the spring inside the kayfun.. I will try it again with a different Atomizer and report tomorrow

    Thanks
    steve.c likes this.

  5. #5
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    I must admit I've never heard of anyone having a problem with a soft female 510 connection on their P3. In fact, a few people have suggested using the 510 connection with their KF4 P3 combo because of the fact that both sides of the 510 connection are more easily replaced if dropped or otherwise damaged than a direct hybrid connection. Not sure about the Hana clone; maybe they have used a poorer quality steel for the 510?

    I think if you try a KFl or 3.1 with a Ni200 build you should find temperature control will work properly.

  6. #6
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    Had problems with the KF4 as well due to the spring on the dna 40, also some issues with the lemo due to the recessed 510.
    KFL, Subtank and drippers all worked out well though.
    dna 40s are very atomizer dependant so u'll have to find certain attys that work
    itslike123 likes this.

  7. #7
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    For the temperature limiting on a DNA40 to work properly, it needs to measure very small differences in resistance.
    If any of the connections between the chip & the end of coil are in the slightest bit dodgy, it will frak up this function.
    The spring in the K4 is one such slightly dodgy connection,
    • if you don't adjust your juice flow, 9 times out of 10 it will work.
    • if you do adjust your juice flow, 9 times out of 10 it will frak it up.

    Best fix: Only use Kanthal in your K4 until SvoeMesto comes out with a K4.1 upgrade.
    See the second half of

    He goes to some extreme lengths to get a good connection with his Lemo.
    itslike123 likes this.

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  8. #8
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    If its a clone dna40 then you've got no guarantees its gonna work properly in the first place. If the tank is also a clone that could double your problems.

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    Quote Originally Posted by <---cop View Post
    The DNA40 is a clone... so who knows what crap it will put out. Roll a dice.
    I assume the Kayfun is a clone too then? Throw it out and keep buying more I guess?
    Quote Originally Posted by itslike123 View Post
    The Dna 40 board is original.. just the box is not, had to buy it of my friend because I couldn't wait for original one to come after one month.. the kayfun is original..
    Oh *snap*

    I, however, do have two DNA40 clones that work fine. My experience is that strange behaviour like the second problem usually comes down to connection issues, either 510 or atty. I had exactly the issue you are talking with a full size subtank. It turned out to be dodgy-ness in the spring loaded 510 in the full size that was causing erroneous resistance readings. I pulled it apart and cleaned it and it's all fine now.
    steve.c and itslike123 like this.
    ---



  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by itslike123 View Post
    The Dna 40 board is original.. just the box is not, had to buy it of my friend because I couldn't wait for original one to come after one month.. the kayfun is original.. the 510 damage is happening on both units provari 3 and dna 40 so this have nothing to do if its clone or not
    maybe the temp control problem as kaoself said mentioned have to do with the spring inside the kayfun.. I will try it again with a different Atomizer and report tomorrow

    Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by steve.c View Post
    If its a clone dna40 then you've got no guarantees its gonna work properly in the first place. If the tank is also a clone that could double your problems.
    Oops! sorry didn't see this post. It could be a wiring issue if this is diy

 

 
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