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Thread: Set Me Up Coiling

  1. #1
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    Set Me Up Coiling

    Howdy Guys & Girls

    As the Title suggests I would like some recommendations on Building coils and Tools Needed

    First off I have never built a coil before.

    Second I have been around awhile and am aware of dangers etc and different vapeing styles.

    I have watched many you tubes and I think I may be able to do this !!doh

    My initial build will be on a Ohman Uno for my Billet Box rev 4 / Boro tank. but am interested in trying out a RDA/RTA at some stage.

    I will not at this stage be looking at sub ohming just a Tootle puffer coil between 1 - 2ohm.

    So I need some gear as in

    A-1 Kanthal Resistance Wire - 28 -32 awg ?? ive read need this for the uno ?

    What is the bestest wire ???

    Some nice white organic fluffy virgin cotton stuffy??

    Do I need one of these >Coil Master 521 TAB so as I don't blow shit up and will a Uno work on this ??

    Or Do I need one of these >Coil Master DIY Tool Kit V2 -This kit looks like it has lots of gadgets to play with which is good as I like gadgets !!!

    Do I need one of these >Coil Master V3 Coiling Kit or just use drill bit thingy or the gadget kit above seems to have all in one.

    Cheers Moza

  2. #2
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    When I first started I had 24g Kanthal, a screwdriver, a pair of pliers, scissors and cotton, nothing too fancy. These days I have the exact same stuff, just more of a variety of wire


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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by moza View Post
    Howdy Guys & Girls

    As the Title suggests I would like some recommendations on Building coils and Tools Needed

    First off I have never built a coil before.
    Just the KISS principle. Start off with simple spaced coils.


    My initial build will be on a Ohman Uno for my Billet Box rev 4 / Boro tank. but am interested in trying out a RDA/RTA at some stage.
    An RDA would actually be easier, due to the larger size of the build deck, proper coil posts etc. Apart from that it looks OK. I started off making coils for tiny heads that were not even meant to be recoiled. A magnifying head band, a handsfree magnifier etc might be an advantage, even if your eyes are OK. I wouldn't go and buy anything if you don't already have it at the start though.

    I will not at this stage be looking at sub ohming just a Tootle puffer coil between 1 - 2ohm.
    So I need some gear as in

    A-1 Kanthal Resistance Wire - 28 -32 awg ?? ive read need this for the uno ?
    What is the bestest wire ???
    For the stated purpose, I think 30 gauge will get you just under 2 ohms in that tiny head, maybe 6 wraps. If you want closer to 1 ohm then maybe 28g would be handy to have. For single coil RTAs I suggest some 26g.

    Wire is really just wire. It makes no difference except maybe if you want re-manufactured wire like claptons and so on.

    https://www.fasttech.com/products/3033/10014903/4239304

    The only problem I have with the UD stuff is that the spools are only 10m (I usually buy 30m spools if it's available) but there is a great range of gauges represented here. It's not expensive, does not have a use-by date - it's just a convenience thing to buy longer spools really.

    Some nice white organic fluffy virgin cotton stuffy??
    This stuff is perfectly fine: https://www.fasttech.com/products/30...otton-wick-for
    It's Japanese organic cotton, unbleached so fluffy if not quite snow white. Snow white would be bleached, which you want to avoid at all costs. I've since moved to KU Rayon but to be honest the Puff wicks just as well. The Rayon maybe tastes a little better and is different to work with.

    Do I need one of these >Coil Master 521 TAB so as I don't blow shit up and will a Uno work on this ??
    You really do need an ohmmeter with a 510 connector. You don't really need a burning tab, and certainly not with the Uno. It's up to you.
    https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...gital-atomizer
    https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...eter-voltmeter

    It can double as a building platform too, which won't help you so much until you get to the RDAs.

    Or Do I need one of these >Coil Master DIY Tool Kit V2 -This kit looks like it has lots of gadgets to play with which is good as I like gadgets !!!
    Do I need one of these >Coil Master V3 Coiling Kit or just use drill bit thingy or the gadget kit above seems to have all in one.
    Yep, well it has pretty well everything including some screwdrivers, pliers, diagonal cutters and the coiling tool. I think it's a pretty good basis if you don't already have any of that stuff. You can probably buy better stuff individually (and spend a lot more) but it's more than sufficient. I'd be worried that the screwdriver sizes are not correct since RDAs often need a 0 size phillips while RTAs are often 000 size phillips. I like having a really good pair of scissors and very accurate flush cutters eg https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...able-atomizers which is a ridiculous price.
    Last edited by fabricator4; 17-05-16 at 06:26 PM.
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    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

  4. #4
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    hey thanks fab4 ill look into that stuff !!

  5. #5
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    I just got the Coil Master v2 kit. It has the V3 cooler in it. The 521 tab is pretty crappy in that kit but I don't worry about that too much because I'm not putting anything on mechs. Otherwise there is a Geekvape kit that has a better 521 tab in it but it's more like $80-85, and the rest is pretty much the same as what you get in the Coil Master kit. I am very happy with it.

  6. #6
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    Me? im a what evers closest shopper...found a nice cheap toolkit (grey box in photo) that includes pliers, cutters and tweezers (non-ceramic - i dont do contact coils, so not a dealbreaker) and jewellers screwdrivers to wrap on that couldnt have cost more than about $15 (more tools like allen keys and screwdriver and drivers underneath jewellers screwdrivers insert to use elsewhere), and a 23 piece precision screwdriver set for all those various mod and tank screws for $10 both from my local kmart



    Also needed:

    Scissors

    Wire - well thats going to go to what type and guage

    Type - for non temp control and tootle puffing, either Kanthal or Stainless Steel (both can be used in vw (variable wattage) mode that will come down to a preference, stainless of course gives you the ability to jump between vw and tc modes, more flexibility if youre interested in trying temp control later on). wire is relatively cheap, and most of us have several guages lying about. I have almost entire spools of wire (26g kanthal and 24g ss316) ill never use sitting here, and im even happy to send you them

    Gauge - depends on single or dual coil, and size of build deck. from personal experience my favourite build on kanthal before i switched to temp control was 7/8 wraps of 26g kanthal on a 3mm diameter for 1.1 ohms - obviously more wraps, more resistance. by comparison those same 7/8 wraps of ss316 on 3mm will only get you around 0.6. What you want to do is strike a balance between the ohms youre aiming for, and choose the guage that gives you the most suitable wraps and surface area...the more wraps/surface area, the more wire in contact with the wick the better the vapour production. Im conditioned via owning a Lemo 2 for so long to making 7/8 wrap coils, both on kanthal and ss, as with kanthal that was the stock factory coil (which most people foung worked best for that tank), and in temp control the 7/8 wraps is the same surface area and just happens to be a good ohmage for 316l to work reliably in temp control.

    the best thing to do to find choices for your guage is to visit the Steam Engine Coil Wrapping Wizard - Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators , put in your wire material (i.e. kanthal) at the top left, enter your target resistance bottom left, enter your inner diameter (people tend to use, generally 2.0mm, 2.5mm or 3mm diameter coils) in the top middle box, and then monkey with the wire diameter inthe left middle until you see the output on the top right equal a sensible amount of wraps. at least thast the way ive used it . If you enter the watts you expect to fire at in the heat flux box in the mid right, it will give you an idea of the temp the vapour will be produced at as well.

    If you decide on dual coils in a dual coil rta/rda, then you want to change the setup box in lower left to dual, in this mode, the number of wraps displayed in the output box in the top right is wraps per coil. in dual coil mode is where the guage will be come more important, especially if youre trying to hit say (going ont he earlier example of 1.1), that would with the earlier mentioned 26g kanthal take 16 wraps per coil, which is a little too many probably for most people and build decks, so in this case you would look for something like 28 gauge (10 wraps) or even 30g (7 wraps)

    have a play with it, and if you get stuck, provide more info and someone will help you figure gauges out

    i would suggest 26g and 28g in kanthal at would cover most situations, the only reference ive seen to the Ohman Uno mentions 12 wraps of 28g on 2.5mm..which if im not mistaken is going to come out just above 2 0hms...i wonder what thats likes, ive never usd anything above 1.1 I would talk to member CrissCross about anything billetbox related....

    Cotton - anything organic and unbleached - most online vape shops carry koh gen do or muji cotton. some chemists/beauty stores carry unbleached organic cotton too.

    Rayon/CelluCotton - other choices for wicks, personal preference

    Ohmmeters/Tabs/Build stands - my own personal bias is to build right on the tank on top of the mod. With temp control especially, ive given up extenral ohm metters as the only ohm reading that matters and is final anyways is the one read by your mod. An external ohm meter cant account for resistance in the mod and connectors, so its not always going to match upwith what your mod says. I bought an ohm meter, quickly figured this out, and its been gatherign dust ever since. As for build stands, never used one so cant comment.

    Coil winders - ive always done spaced coils (gaps bewteen wraps...even before temp control which works best when using them) and so never used contact coils (where the wraps are close together. if you plan doing contact coils, then yes a coil winder can be useful. but you can achieve the same thing with just a jewellers screwdrive and some ceramic tweezers.

    Red Rubber Band - do not underestimate the usefulness of the red rubber band pictured at top right in my pic, mines broken from overuse but actually now more useful, as i can now more easily use either end on seperate parts of my tanks, instead of twisting a non broken one. RRB comes in handy when trying to get metal tanks and their component threaded parts apart. do not use pliers on bare metal, if you have to use pliers, put the RRB around the part first. RRB gives you excellent grip.

    these are my perosnal thoughts and biases your mileage may vary....

    edit: well, youve been busy (and quicker) since i started typing 30 minutes ago Fab
    Last edited by stylemessiah; 17-05-16 at 04:02 PM.
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  7. #7
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    28g is probably the best size to work with if you're going for 1-2ohms. 30guague and higher is quite thin and can be a pain to work with, its also going to break easier when replacing wicks. 28 is thicker so its easier to mold and sturdy enough when changing wicks. Lower than 28 is thicker and even easier to work with but its more suited for building sub ohm coils.

    Fab thinks spaced coils are easier to build but with 28g, contact coils are just as easy imo.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sign me up View Post
    28g is probably the best size to work with if you're going for 1-2ohms. 30guague and higher is quite thin and can be a pain to work with, its also going to break easier when replacing wicks. 28 is thicker so its easier to mold and sturdy enough when changing wicks. Lower than 28 is thicker and even easier to work with but its more suited for building sub ohm coils.

    Fab thinks spaced coils are easier to build but with 28g, contact coils are just as easy imo.
    I said simple, not easier. Contact coils would really need firing before they are wicked to make sure there are no hotspots, and firing on the device he's talking about with no wick to hold the coil in place is a recipe for disaster. He *really* needs to start with spaced coils.
    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabricator4 View Post
    I said simple, not easier. Contact coils would really need firing before they are wicked to make sure there are no hotspots, and firing on the device he's talking about with no wick to hold the coil in place is a recipe for disaster. He *really* needs to start with spaced coils.
    Ive become so sure and confident (or is that complacent and lazy?) when coiling with spaced coils that i havent even test fired one in 6 months

    Besides i could never get into the contact coil lifestyle, sitting there with tweezers playing and tweaking, for me its not a huge leap from playing with a coil with tweezers and trying to make a skin suit to become mother...
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  10. #10
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    I started off with a few different sized wires, flush cutters, 2 kuro koilers (2.5 and 3mm), Koh Gen Do Cotton, and ceramic tweezers.

    Now I have a Coil Master DIY V2 and it has everything I need. A 521 tab is just a gimmick. Especially nowadays with mods that have such accurate chips, you don't need something like that. Just a fancy ohm reader to me.

    I started off sub-ohming and cloud chasing so I can't assist with coils over 0.5 ohms lol
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