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Thread: Troubles with my 0.13Ω Build.

  1. #1
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    Question Troubles with my 0.13Ω Build.

    Hey guys, im using Clapton Alien Wire dual coil build. With a resistance of 0.13, i am using about 24amps at about 85 watts. I am getting alot of spitback (popping). I have a picture of my build.

    Box Mod : RX2/3 Tank : ijoy Limiteless RDTA Coils : Alien Clapton Wick : Alien Wick Juice : 50/50 3mg Nic Watermelon. Battery 18650 2500MaH 3.7mah 30A

    Please help, i have tried putting the watts down but it barely fires and i get minimal smoke.

    No idea why the IMGUR automatically rotated my images :/

    My set-up - Album on Imgur

  2. #2
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    Not enough cotton in there is my first guess looking at the pics - the last 2 make it look like you have space above the wick...inside the coil

    you need it snug through the coil...as a rough guide, and what i was taught, enough cotton is when you grab either end of the wick and move it back and forth it should just create enough grip/friction to just move the atomiser and mod

    And yes, turning down the watts/temp will mean a slower ramp up, claptons take higher watts than normal to run them (especially that mass of blooming wire you have in there)
    and having not enough watts/temp (apart from not enough cotton) can lead to popping, as you can get the juice hot enough to pop off the wire, but not vaporise.

    fwiw, ive never enjoyed anything beyond a single coil, tried claptons once and hated them, not for my low wattage/temp style, a single gives me more than enough vapour to create coimment worthy cloudage
    Last edited by stylemessiah; 10-10-16 at 12:02 AM.
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  3. #3
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    tiger on a troll


    pre-wrapped 0.36 Tiger Coil - material unknown but seems to work on TC
    setting: 28-30W mod: RX200 atty: Troll V2 rda coil: Demon Killer (8-1 pack) Tiger coil .36 ohms
    juice: high VG golden virginia tobacco + Charlie Noble's Charlie's Custard + 6 mg nic


    yes it must be the wicking as style has said.

    earlier i was being a cheapskate and tried blending Muji and Native Wicks pima but
    my roll was a bit slim and loose and all i got was spit back.

    This time I wicked it with my usual pima cotton made it tight, the result was no spit back.
    If you're familiar with Vapers Choice Cotton or Native Wicks, I cut about 4cm long (on RDAs)
    then use half lengthwise per coil. It will fit nicely on a 3 mm inner dia. coil.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sicario View Post
    Hey guys, im using Clapton Alien Wire dual coil build. With a resistance of 0.13, i am using about 24amps at about 85 watts. I am getting alot of spitback (popping). I have a picture of my build.
    Their is mostly likely two contributing factors: The liquid, and insufficient airflow.

    It's a fact that some liquids spit more than others. Some component in the flavouring either changes the vaporisation temperature, or has a different temperature to the other components. The other three main components don't change (VG/PG/nic) so I have to put it down to the flavours interacting with certain coil and wick designs.

    Airflow is a complex one. Basically an alien coil (and most claptons) have so much space in them they hold a lot of juice in the coil itself. If the juice is overheated it can cause it boil - and it spits out of the coil itself. The coil will also have a long ramp up time, due to the mass of the coil itself so it's deceptive. You think you've got it right but the coil continues to heat up for a long time, until the juice boils and the spits out. Higher airflow keeps the coils cooler for longer, and will usually postpone this for a bit longer.

    I would try turning the watts down and take a longer draw or do a pre heat puff (short puff before the main one to give the coil more time to heat up), or leave the power where it is and try a more rapid airflow over the coil. With claptons I normally do the first option, then take a second one if the first wasn't thick enough.

    Stainless steel builds on a TC setup are a bit more forgiving because you can have the watts set high to get around the ramp up, but the temperature control prevents the coil from overheating and spitting.

    No idea why the IMGUR automatically rotated my images :/
    jpg images can have a lot of technical data attached to them. This is called EXIF data. One of the parameters is camera orientation at the time the photo was taken. Most cameras and phones with orientation sensors fill this field in, so that when you open the photo in software, the software will automatically know if it needs to rotate the image, and which way etc. Unfortunately phones do things the wrong way - "portrait" is normal for a phone where as "landscape" would be rotated, and if you shoot at more than 45 degrees down you've got a 50/50 chance of even that doing something different. Imgur tries to work out what's happening based on the EXIF information and rotate the image appropriately, but the signals are all wrong.

    The solution is to strip the EXIF information before you upload it, and manually rotate the image by editing it if it's the wrong way.
    Robray and BatDan like this.
    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabricator4 View Post
    jpg images can have a lot of technical data attached to them. This is called EXIF data. One of the parameters is camera orientation at the time the photo was taken. Most cameras and phones with orientation sensors fill this field in, so that when you open the photo in software, the software will automatically know if it needs to rotate the image, and which way etc. Unfortunately phones do things the wrong way - "portrait" is normal for a phone where as "landscape" would be rotated, and if you shoot at more than 45 degrees down you've got a 50/50 chance of even that doing something different. Imgur tries to work out what's happening based on the EXIF information and rotate the image appropriately, but the signals are all wrong.

    The solution is to strip the EXIF information before you upload it, and manually rotate the image by editing it if it's the wrong way.
    Off topic, but I am in awe of your wealth of knowledge Fab!

  6. #6
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    You might need to anneal/glow your coils, to work out any hot spots.

    Remove the cotton, set power around 40W and pulse to see if they will glow evenly.
    You may see hot spots where the current bridges across the coils.
    Then pinch and strum the coils with (preferably) ceramic tweezers.
    Pinch a coil that isn't glowing and strum a coil where there is a hot spot.
    You'll know when you've got it right as both coils will glow at the same time and from the centre out.

    There's plenty of youtube videos showing this technique.
    I do this with all coils except spaced ones.

    When you strum you need to chant 'ohm'. JK

    Fabricator4 will be able to elaborate the science behind it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by helixx View Post
    Fabricator4 will be able to elaborate the science behind it.
    It probably allows the non-conductive oxide layer to develop between the wraps. It is shorts across the wraps that cause the hot spots and streaks. Once they are not shorting across, the current has to go the long way 'round.
    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

 

 

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