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Thread: Whats the best for a cool vape?

  1. #21
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    [QUOTE=gert;855934]
    Quote Originally Posted by muscovyduckling View Post
    No worries Gert. Some common abbreviations/terms for you:

    RTA: Rebuildable Tank Atomiser
    RDA: Rebuildable Dripping Atomiser
    RBA: Rebuildable Atomiser (can be either tank or dripper)
    RDTA: a stupid marketing ploy, usually used to describe Genesis style tanks that have a tank of juice sitting underneath the coil

    Clearomiser - aka 'Clearo' - kind of like the old cartomisers, but these atties have a glass tank on the outside that you fill with juice, and inside this tank you have a replacable/disposable coil head that you buy in packs and change every couple of weeks.

    If you have been using drippers I guess that means you know how to build, wick and install your own home made coils. Is this what you would like in your new gear, or would you prefer to buy premade disposable coil heads like the old cartos?

    Edit: I see Merexy beat me to it, much more succinctly I might add![/QUOTe


    Thanks Muskovy, I need that. A lot of the time I have no idea what people are talking about with this gear.
    No I just drip the juice onto an old atty and vape with a drip tip-very primitive lol
    Fatman likes this.

  2. #22
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    Gert, as the proud owner of two Bernina 830's I know exactly what you mean

    I am going to make a suggestion to you now about mods - there's a guy here called Mallee00 who has 3 x Provari mods for sale in the classies, and I think you should have a look at those. These are old tech variable voltage mods, they have all the safety features you'll ever need but basically no other bells or whistles. They have 1 button, an old-fashioned LED display, and are built like brick shithouses. Vapers these days don't like them because they only go up to 6volts (~15 watts), will not fire coils with a resistance lower than 1.2ohms (many new mods fire down to 0.1ohm), they don't have Temp Control, and cost more than the new Made in China mods that offer all these things and more. They are basic, reliable, and get the job done very well and very consistently. I have 7 of them myself - they are just like my 1980s Berninas.

    Now, a 'mod' (the battery part) breakdown for you. Mods these days come in three main classes:

    First are mechanical mods. They have literally no bells or whistles, they're just a tube or box that you put a battery in, screw your atty onto, and press the fire button. They deliver the power straight from the battery to the coil in your atomiser. Because they have no chip/electronics they have no safety features that are standard on regulated mods - things like reverse battery/polarity protection, overheat protection, short circuit protection etc etc. You also need to know how many amps the battery you are using is rated to draw, and make sure you build your coil accordingly. This requires some knowledge of ohms law. Also, the vape will change depending on how much charge is left in your battery - a fully charged battery will send more power to the coil, but when it's nearly flat it won't send much power to the coil so you won't get as much vapour.

    Second are unregulated mods, like the Tesla brand mods, and most of the pen-style starter mods. These are somewhere in between mechanical mods and variable voltage/wattage mods. They deliver power based on the charge in the battery and the resistance of your coil - that is, you can't dial in the voltage/wattage you want - but the have some safety features built in. Most of these unregulated mods have built-in rather than removable batteries, but a few do have removable batteries. They will also deliver less power to your coil as the battery starts to go flat, meaning less vapor when you battery is due for a charge.

    Last are variable voltage/wattage mods. These let you choose how many volts/watts you want to go to the coil, and have all sorts of electronic safety features built in. These days most VV/VW mods also offer temp control (TC) mode, and 'Bypass' mode (which is basically the same as what you'd get from the unregulated mods), although you don't have to ever use these modes. If you are using Variable Wattage mode, the mod will deliver the wattage you dial in to the coil consistently until the battery dies, which means you get the same amount of vapour no matter how much charge your battery has left. They vary in max. wattage output from ~40watts to ~300watts. For your style of Vaping I think it's unlikely you'll ever need more than ~15-20watts.
    Last edited by muscovyduckling; 20-03-17 at 06:33 PM.
    gert, gtadmin, Fatman and 3 others like this.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by muscovyduckling View Post
    Gert, as the proud owner of two Bernina 830's I know exactly what you mean

    I am going to make a suggestion to you now about mods - there's a guy here called Mallee00 who has 3 x Provari mods for sale in the classies, and I think you should have a look at those. These are old tech variable voltage mods, they have all the safety features you'll ever need but basically no other bells or whistles. They have 1 button, an old-fashioned LED display, and are built like brick shithouses. Vapers these days don't like them because they only go up to 6volts (~15 watts), will not fire coils with a resistance lower than 1.2ohms (many new mods fire down to 0.1ohm), they don't have Temp Control, and cost more than the new Made in China mods that offer all these things and more. They are basic, reliable, and get the job done very well and very consistently. I have 7 of them myself - they are just like my 1980s Berninas.

    Now, a 'mod' (the battery part) breakdown for you. Mods these days come in three main classes:

    First are mechanical mods. They have literally no bells or whistles, they're just a tube or box that you put a battery in, screw your atty onto, and press the fire button. They deliver the power straight from the battery to the coil in your atomiser. Because they have no chip/electronics they have no safety features that are standard on regulated mods - things like reverse battery/polarity protection, overheat protection, short circuit protection etc etc. You also need to know how many amps the battery you are using is rated to draw, and make sure you build your coil accordingly. This requires some knowledge of ohms law. Also, the vape will change depending on how much charge is left in your battery - a fully charged battery will send more power to the coil, but when it's nearly flat it won't send much power to the coil so you won't get as much vapour.

    Second are unregulated mods, like the Tesla brand mods, and most of the pen-style starter mods. These are somewhere in between mechanical mods and variable voltage/wattage mods. They deliver power based on the charge in the battery and the resistance of your coil - that is, you can't dial in the voltage/wattage you want - but the have some safety features built in. Most of these unregulated mods have built-in rather than removable batteries, but a few do have removable batteries. They will also deliver less power to your coil as the battery starts to go flat, meaning less vapor when you battery is due for a charge.

    Last are variable voltage/wattage mods. These let you choose how many volts/watts you want to go to the coil, and have all sorts of electronic safety features built in. These days most VV/VW mods also offer temp control (TC) mode, and 'Bypass' mode (which is basically the same as what you'd get from the unregulated mods), although you don't have to ever use these modes. If you are using Variable Wattage mode, the mod will deliver the wattage you dial in to the coil consistently until the battery dies, which means you get the same amount of vapour no matter how much charge your battery has left. They vary in max. wattage output from ~40watts to ~300watts. For your style of Vaping I think it's unlikely you'll ever need more than ~15-20watts.
    Thanks so, so much Muscovy for that .. I have a huge learning curve ahead before i get familiar with it all.

    From that selection the unregulated Mods interesting, perhaps i should check them out. Thank you again.
    for all the help.

  4. #24
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    Gert, if what you used in the past worked for you maybe consider the Endura t22 as a newer form - similar but different ! I found the Endura T18 was indeed a warm vape, but apparently the T22, with a bigger tank and the 2ohm coil is a lot cooler and certainly gets a big tick from many new vapers.. as a simple plug in coil and vape ! and it also allows you to buy other tanks if you wanted to explore further options later on... just a thought.. the possibilities are endless but often keeping it simple can work too
    gert likes this.

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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by gert View Post
    Thanks so, so much Muscovy for that .. I have a huge learning curve ahead before i get familiar with it all.

    From that selection the unregulated Mods interesting, perhaps i should check them out. Thank you again.
    for all the help.
    If that is the case then you will most likely want to look at the tanks and other devices that have a section you can build on. With mechs and other unregulated devices the only think you can do to adjust the vape is wrap a coil to a different resistance, though some of the stuff like the Prism has factory coils that are specifically designed to work on an unregulated source.
    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.


  6. #26
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    Thanks Lynne, will check that out. The must be an overwhelming demand for hot vapour,from what i can gather...manufactures just keep making the gear to go ever hotter.
    Fatman and merexy like this.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabricator4 View Post
    I've kind of been avoiding TC for noobs and for long term vapers who come back behind the technology curve. The latter was me about 15 months ago. Over three years on mechs and protanks and then things break and you are like "WTF happened"?

    The reason I'm cautious about recommending TC is not because I don't like it; I think it's brilliant, tech nerd that I am. There's two main reasons - it takes more know-how to keep it running right - bad results are assured if you don't understand the TC wires or that you have to set a baseline at cold, or that even a 0.02 ohm variation in the coil will mess you up. Setting a baseline with a hot coil is going to give you a dry hit every time... and the second reason is I just don't think it's mature enough. Chinese companies seem to be rushing stuff to market with very poor or even buggy TC implementations.

    DNA stuff is OK from what I can gather, but usually more expensive for a first time test of the tech, and may need some tweaking to get it right. Stuff that is generally considered "OK" like the Evic/eleaf/Wismec I've noticed problems with - Replacing the firmware with Arctic Fox and doing a heck of a lot of tweaking gets me to where it runs perfectly (and I DO mean "perfectly") but that's for advanced users IMHO.

    I wish I could recommend temperature control, but I think it's something that people are better off finding for themselves when they are ready for it.
    Totally get what you are saying. Can also add making spaced coils are just a bit harder as well.

    Thing is though my journey into vaping wasn't really complete until I found TC. For me it was the end game. Once I got it all figured out I just sat back and sighed, yep all is good. There is a larger learning curve with TC but for those like me it is a great thing to master.
    Last cigarette, 11:00 AM 11th March 2015.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cams View Post
    Totally get what you are saying. Can also add making spaced coils are just a bit harder as well.

    Thing is though my journey into vaping wasn't really complete until I found TC. For me it was the end game. Once I got it all figured out I just sat back and sighed, yep all is good. There is a larger learning curve with TC but for those like me it is a great thing to master.

    I feel the same way. I've never had a great experience with unregulated mods and I honestly prefer the idea of battery management with an advanced variable mod. I got into TC just as SS was becoming a thing and, reading up on the different wire choices, I felt that it was the safest choice (Not that I got all caught up in the Ti/Ni hysteria. I'm not a purist, I'm just glad I'm off the analogues.). The SMOK and Joytech TC Chipsets are doing a good job for me in TC modes and, to be honest, are less temperamental than the DNA Chipset. Does this mean they are less effective or accurate? Possibly, but I've vaped on the same set of wicks and coils for over 6 months without a single dry hit. Yes the wicks tasted a bit manky after that long but I was just seeing how far I could push it.

    From my perspective, choosing TC or VW is like shelling out for a Provari over trying vaping with an eGo. The vast majority of vapers who wash up on the shores of this forum ended up going to a VV/VW mod eventually and most of us, with the benefit of hindsight, wondered why we'd ever bothered with anything less.

    What I love about TC is the ability to 'rough it in.' I can just wrap up a couple of coils without having to be too worried about the exact resistance, Fire, Pinch, Strum and then let them cool down, add some wick and juice and let the mod worry about the sweet spot for my chosen temperature (usually somewhere between 215C and 240C).

    I've run TCSS on a couple of DNA200s, a DNA75, a Treebox Plus, a Treebox, a Cuboid, a RX2/3 and a Limitless Lux. The latter is the only one I've had any noticeable problems with the chip rejecting TC mode, though occasionally the Cuboid and the RX will balk at specific atties.

    After having said all of that, I will admit that my Krixus does a fine job at between 60 and 80W and doesn't suffer burnt hits.

    TL;DR Another rambling pile of crap from Nothingexpert.
    muscovyduckling likes this.
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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by gert View Post
    The must be an overwhelming demand for hot vapour,from what i can gather...manufactures just keep making the gear to go ever hotter.
    Gert, the huge wattages mods are capable of these days is not intended to make one coil hotter, it's so that you can heat up four+ coils at once. Many atties these days have two or four or more heating coils in them (more coils = more vapour) and it takes a lot of power and a lot of batteries to heat up these low resistance coil configurations.

    People these days are wanting more vapour (which means more coils), not more heat
    gert likes this.

  10. #30
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    I started using mechs 2 months after I started vaping and they are what I use the most still. I prefer the way a mech vapes to any of the fandanglies any day, it's pure. I can tell when a battery is going off. Safety is not an issue if you do the right thing and don't make silly builds.
    gert likes this.

 

 
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