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Thread: Stripped hex screws

  1. #1
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    Stripped hex screws

    So I've lost both my squonking attys due to completely stripped and rounded hex screws.

    First was the Aromamizer V-RDA. This was a bit of a weird one, as it only lasted one build. I went to swap out the coils and noticed one of the posts (the negative one) was looking a bit bent and warped. Sure enough, the hex screws wouldn't budge on that post, and they threaded. Now they're even worse thanks to my failed attempts to drill them out. Totally bummed - I paid $55 for that atty, and got to use it once!

    The other just happened today, with the RDA that came with my Therion 75w BF, called the Delirium. I was putting new coils in (about my 10th build on this deck), and noticed that one of my coil legs was loose, even though the hex screw was tightened down all the way - so I give it the teenist bit more of a turn and felt it slip, and sure enough, it got worse the more I tried to get it out.

    So 2 atty's, both unusable

    I saw someone mention using a rubberband on another thread, but it didn't work. I tried a #1 Easy-Out but it wouldn't bite. I tried a reverse drill bit, but without a vice, all I could use was multigrips to hold it steady, and that didn't really work.

    Both attys are less then a month old - would it be worth trying for warranty? Or would having attempted to drill them out void the warranty? I emailed one of the vendors, but didn't hear back.

    Any other tips, tricks anyone can think of? Would the superglue trick work?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by SomberVaper View Post
    So I've lost both my squonking attys due to completely stripped and rounded hex screws.

    First was the Aromamizer V-RDA. This was a bit of a weird one, as it only lasted one build. I went to swap out the coils and noticed one of the posts (the negative one) was looking a bit bent and warped. Sure enough, the hex screws wouldn't budge on that post, and they threaded. Now they're even worse thanks to my failed attempts to drill them out. Totally bummed - I paid $55 for that atty, and got to use it once!

    The other just happened today, with the RDA that came with my Therion 75w BF, called the Delirium. I was putting new coils in (about my 10th build on this deck), and noticed that one of my coil legs was loose, even though the hex screw was tightened down all the way - so I give it the teenist bit more of a turn and felt it slip, and sure enough, it got worse the more I tried to get it out.

    So 2 atty's, both unusable

    I saw someone mention using a rubberband on another thread, but it didn't work. I tried a #1 Easy-Out but it wouldn't bite. I tried a reverse drill bit, but without a vice, all I could use was multigrips to hold it steady, and that didn't really work.

    Both attys are less then a month old - would it be worth trying for warranty? Or would having attempted to drill them out void the warranty? I emailed one of the vendors, but didn't hear back.

    Any other tips, tricks anyone can think of? Would the superglue trick work?
    In my experience superglue is not strong enough to remove a stuck thread if there is not enough metal to get a partial bite with the right tool. It's too brittle and cracks out. You could try some high strength epoxy but the time to reach full hardness is minimum 48 hours.

    Is one of the posts actually bent, as in deformed? You need to straighten it otherwise nothing on the planet will get the thread out.

    What I would do is use reverse direction drills (drill in an anti clockwise motion). First a 1mm, then a 2mm. Usually while drilling with the 2mm it will catch at some point and drive the thread out. A 2mm drill will not catch if you don't have the smaller pilot hole drilled first.

    Replace the screws with hardened ones as they don't strip out as easily. Reasons for stripping out the hex head (or any head) are that the screw head is too soft and it's over tightened, or the tool you are using is damaged or the incorrect size/shape. The most common culprits are using half size or imperial tools on metric heads (or the other way around) Same for mixing up phillips head and posidrive but thankfully we don't see much posidrive used in the vape industry.
    MrGruffy and SomberVaper like this.
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  3. #3
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    This or this. Do yourself a favour. Or go to FT and grab a cl***. The SXK cl*** of the Hadaly is high quality. I have the LP on the Therion BF at .48 ohms and the flavour is lovely.

    I have the V-RDA and I've rounded out three or four grubs since I got it. Honestly its a real drop of the ball by Steamcrave considering all their RDTAs have been such great products. The glass section gets covered in condensation and the novelty of having glass in an RDA (either being able to see your wick & wire or watching the vapour being produced) is lost by having that ridiculous airflow. It is seriously the most ridiculous design choice for an RDA - wow I can see the bullshit cyclonic airflow!!! Oh no, wait, now I can see all the juice I'm wasting by letting it condense inside the atty. What a thrill!!

    With the steel section its almost as heavy as an old SS gene tank that broke my Provari. I haven't tested it for any kind of voltage sag but it doesn't hit as hard as other atties with the same resistance build and it warms up very quickly (moreso with the SS section). I'm only using it until I receive a couple of other BF atties I have coming in the post. Then I think I might mail it to Steamcrave with an abusive letter telling them to chase for flavour up their arse. That's the only place the flavour could be...

    As far as the Delirium goes, well, it got relegated to clutter almost immediately. I pull it out occasionally and remind myself why I prefer not to buy kits over just mods (generally speaking).

    /end rant


    In my opinion, save yourself the heartache of trying to chase a warranty claim on a known issue with the V-RDA (rounding screws) and don't even bother with the Delirium at all. Grab a genuine, quality BF atty like the ones linked above, or go spend that money at FT and get a range to try and then buy the real thing to support the designer. There is a squonking thread on the FT forums that has all related items available in the first few posts.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nothingexpert View Post
    This or this. Do yourself a favour. Or go to FT and grab a cl***. The SXK cl*** of the Hadaly is high quality. I have the LP on the Therion BF at .48 ohms and the flavour is lovely.

    I have the V-RDA and I've rounded out three or four grubs since I got it. Honestly its a real drop of the ball by Steamcrave considering all their RDTAs have been such great products. The glass section gets covered in condensation and the novelty of having glass in an RDA (either being able to see your wick & wire or watching the vapour being produced) is lost by having that ridiculous airflow. It is seriously the most ridiculous design choice for an RDA - wow I can see the bullshit cyclonic airflow!!! Oh no, wait, now I can see all the juice I'm wasting by letting it condense inside the atty. What a thrill!!

    With the steel section its almost as heavy as an old SS gene tank that broke my Provari. I haven't tested it for any kind of voltage sag but it doesn't hit as hard as other atties with the same resistance build and it warms up very quickly (moreso with the SS section). I'm only using it until I receive a couple of other BF atties I have coming in the post. Then I think I might mail it to Steamcrave with an abusive letter telling them to chase for flavour up their arse. That's the only place the flavour could be...

    As far as the Delirium goes, well, it got relegated to clutter almost immediately. I pull it out occasionally and remind myself why I prefer not to buy kits over just mods (generally speaking).

    /end rant


    In my opinion, save yourself the heartache of trying to chase a warranty claim on a known issue with the V-RDA (rounding screws) and don't even bother with the Delirium at all. Grab a genuine, quality BF atty like the ones linked above, or go spend that money at FT and get a range to try and then buy the real thing to support the designer. There is a squonking thread on the FT forums that has all related items available in the first few posts.
    I'm hearing you. It's just painful to have two build decks sitting there unable to be used, all for the sake of some shi$$ty grub screws. I probably will give them one more shot using Fabs advice. But I'll still save up some money and get the Hadaly or the Goon. Bad timing though - just got my quote back from the mechanic to get my timing chain replaced - $2.5k

  5. #5
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    Some small ideas for stripped hex screws-

    Use a latex glove or something else that is grippy over the screw so that it provides some grip for you to get the dammed thing out

    Cut a small notch into the screw and pull it out with a small screw driver

    Buy one of these kinds of sets
    https://www.groupon.com.au/deals/sen...FY0rvQodnkkNuA


    Take a bigger allen key bash it in with a small hammer and see if that bites

    Just drill it out

    There are probably more ways - but these are a few
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  6. #6
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    Could be worse.

    I've got a stripped thread on a post. Because of where it is, what it'll be used for and what not, none of the usual repairs will be possible.

    But getting out a stripped grub screw isn't that difficult IF, and it's a really big if, you have the right tools for the job.

    Ideally, you'll have a slightly bigger than required, high quality allen key. To this allen key you will carefully taper the tip at a very, very slight angle until it barely fits in the socket and will not go all the way down. W&D sandpaper works well to accomplish this task, but try and make each side somewhat even and the corners as sharp as possible.

    Now, if possible, take off any and all plastic and rubber parts from the offending post/base and heat it up. Boiling water should be enough to help out here and will help clean off any junk that might be binding things up.

    Jam the cold, slightly modified allen key in the hole and take the screw out. Throw the offending screw as far as you can in any direction as that's about all it's good for now.

    Because these screws are so small and delicate, few of the usual tools work. Because it's all SS, there is often some other crap going on which tends to lock screws up IF they don't heat cycle loose.

    Basically they're bad screws into bad material. If you ever find titanium posts and titanium screws, don't even bother. Titanium makes SS look like a picnic for fasteners.

    Good luck.

    Stu.

  7. #7
    Noe
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    FT have replacement packs of hex grub screws & philips head screws in various sizes, made from 304SS. The m3 & m2.5 sizes seem to fit most atties, length isn't all that important(unless they are too long)for grub screws but they come in different lengths too:
    https://www.fasttech.com/p/3981703
    https://www.fasttech.com/p/3981605
    Philips head screws (m3) 3mm & 5mm long:
    https://www.fasttech.com/products/3023/10012389/3989203
    https://www.fasttech.com/products/3023/10012389/3989205
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noe View Post
    FT have replacement packs of hex grub screws & philips head screws in various sizes, made from 304SS. The m3 & m2.5 sizes seem to fit most atties, length isn't all that important(unless they are too long)for grub screws but they come in different lengths too:
    https://www.fasttech.com/p/3981703
    https://www.fasttech.com/p/3981605
    Philips head screws (m3) 3mm & 5mm long:
    https://www.fasttech.com/products/3023/10012389/3989203
    https://www.fasttech.com/products/3023/10012389/3989205
    Which ones fit a Rose V2 ?

    Yes one of my Rose screws has vanished through a worm hole,
    into a alternate universe,
    inhabited exclusively by Rose grub screws ?!?

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  9. #9
    Noe
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snidely_Whiplash View Post
    Which ones fit a Rose V2 ?

    Yes one of my Rose screws has vanished through a worm hole,
    into a alternate universe,
    inhabited exclusively by Rose grub screws ?!?
    I don't have a Rose V2 to check screw size but I think if you get the shortest length grubs in m2, m2.5, m3 & m4 you'll have all the bases covered for around $5 & have enough spares for plenty more atties on top
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  10. #10
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    For what is worth, the SXK version of the Hadaly is good, but the Shen Ray version is better. Every atty made by Shen Ray, at least in my personal experience, was better made than the other ones except the authentics.

 

 

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