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Thread: Tank suggestion with rebuild option please

  1. #1
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    Tank suggestion with rebuild option please

    Hi all i was just after some suggestion's on the best tank systems available out there, with a rebuild able component and a ready to go option. I was looking at the aspire triton as it has the rebuild coil head pack.

    I've primarily been using Cerotanks and Silo tanks in the past with the BVC's and have come to the realisation that they are becoming obsolete, I havent really kept up with all the new innovations going on in the past 18 months to 2 yrs as ive been happy with what i was using.

    Im ok at building simple micro coils and have all the gear for that but im not really interested in getting to involved beyond that, in saying that even with the Triton tank im noticing that that may well be on its way to being obsolete possibly any suggestions would be much appreciated.

    Thank Ben

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben_76 View Post
    Hi all i was just after some suggestion's on the best tank systems available out there, with a rebuild able component and a ready to go option. I was looking at the aspire triton as it has the rebuild coil head pack.

    I've primarily been using Cerotanks and Silo tanks in the past with the BVC's and have come to the realisation that they are becoming obsolete, I havent really kept up with all the new innovations going on in the past 18 months to 2 yrs as ive been happy with what i was using.

    Im ok at building simple micro coils and have all the gear for that but im not really interested in getting to involved beyond that, in saying that even with the Triton tank im noticing that that may well be on its way to being obsolete possibly any suggestions would be much appreciated.

    Thank Ben
    I'm still using Kanger Subtanks. I also have a kayfun 5 clone. I find them interchangeable for flavour and vapour, though the Subtanks are a little looser draw wide open. This is mostly for DL at lower wattages - 18 to 22 watts or so. Both have very small well designed decks and chambers for flavour, and both are much maligned. I think it depends on what you really want, but if you wanted something with restricted DL and single coil, I think either are very good.

    I've tried the Aspire RBA head, and found it sucks. It's like rebuilding a conventional factory head, rubber grommet and all. Because of the way it screws together, I found it leaves dead space where the wick doesn't cover the juice hole properly, so is more likely to flood. I'd prefer to work with factory heads than this dreadful thing.

    There's an RBA 2 section for the Subtank, with larger juice holes. These are the ones I prefer. Fasttech have them as an aftermarket original part. Kanger started shipping the older style with smaller holes with their tanks again. I think people have a problem using enough wick to fill the head on the RBA 2, but I hate the small hole one - it just can't keep up in my opinion.
    ben_76 likes this.
    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

  3. #3
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    There are a few single coil rtas that are easy to build and perform well with simple coils. Like fab said subtank mini and kayfun 5. Few other good ones are the serpent mini , skyline , hussar , taifun gt3. Maybe look up some reviews of them and go from there. you could also grab a squonk mod and one of the single coil rdas that put out excellent flavor with simple builds like the hadaly. Doubt you would ever need anything else

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
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  4. #4
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    best simple single coil ,easy to build and wick moist tasty vaping MTL tank = Digiflavor Siren.. in my small but well formed opinion
    fabricator4, ben_76 and Daviet like this.


    Where all think alike, no one thinks very much.

  5. #5
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    Thanks guys some interesting googling ahead, are they all able to take stock coils as well as your own builds?

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    For the most part, the RTA mentioned are just that; you need to build coils for it. There are no pre made coils for them as such. Fab mentioned the Kanger tanks.. you can buy a rba coil head for rebuilding. The Triton coils will be found for a while still I'm sure.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben_76 View Post
    Thanks guys some interesting googling ahead, are they all able to take stock coils as well as your own builds?
    The subtanks also take factory coils, a range to choose from. They also come with the RBA section but like I said, probably the one with the smaller juice holes. The RBA 2 heads are only about $8 each though. Try the ones that come with it first and worry about that if it seems it's not keeping up. I think people had flooding issues which is probably why Kanger went back to the smaller holes.

    The Kayfuns don't have factory heads, it's an RBA only. I don't see that as a problem because once you start making your own coils, you never go back to factory stuff. A 2.5mm spaced coil of 0.4 or 0.5 ohms is all you need in these things. Do it with 316 S/S and you've got temp control capability as well.

    This is no nonsense simple stuff that just works - daily drivers. If I want crazy clouds or to play with complex builds, that's what the RDAs and other stuff is for.

    There's a few tricks with these little RBA heads (everything has it's little idiosyncrasies so no surprises..)

    1) 2.5mm coils are about right in these tiny RBA's. If you make it bigger you restrict the airflow more - so that's a possibility if you want something more MTL and tighter.
    2) The wick needs to be firm in the coil - this means there's enough wick stuffed in there to prevent flooding, and a firm wick means no popping and shooting hot juice.
    3) wicks need to be neat and trained away from the coil. This ensures good airflow over and around the coil. If you leave it bunched up it interrupts the airflow and causes hot spots and poor flavour.
    4) The coils last forever (almost) but you need to dry burn and re-wick once a week if you run flavoured juice. I do it when the vapour production drops off. It takes less than five minutes to do the regular maintenance and needs minimal tools (some wick and some scissors to cut it with, mostly). Running with a fresh wick is a joy, so you can do it more often if you want - wick is cheap.
    5) I have some spare Subtank/Toptank RBA heads, and have them set up and ready to go. If I don't have time to do the maintenance I can just swap the RBA out and worry about it later (that's a trap too, if you get lazy with it).

    I don't see the point using fancy builds in these devices. I don't think the flavour is any better, and could be significantly worse. Simple airflow is the key to good flavour in these things.
    gtadmin, ben_76 and gurishka like this.
    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by fabricator4 View Post
    The subtanks also take factory coils, a range to choose from. They also come with the RBA section but like I said, probably the one with the smaller juice holes. The RBA 2 heads are only about $8 each though. Try the ones that come with it first and worry about that if it seems it's not keeping up. I think people had flooding issues which is probably why Kanger went back to the smaller holes.

    The Kayfuns don't have factory heads, it's an RBA only. I don't see that as a problem because once you start making your own coils, you never go back to factory stuff. A 2.5mm spaced coil of 0.4 or 0.5 ohms is all you need in these things. Do it with 316 S/S and you've got temp control capability as well.

    This is no nonsense simple stuff that just works - daily drivers. If I want crazy clouds or to play with complex builds, that's what the RDAs and other stuff is for.

    There's a few tricks with these little RBA heads (everything has it's little idiosyncrasies so no surprises..)

    1) 2.5mm coils are about right in these tiny RBA's. If you make it bigger you restrict the airflow more - so that's a possibility if you want something more MTL and tighter.
    2) The wick needs to be firm in the coil - this means there's enough wick stuffed in there to prevent flooding, and a firm wick means no popping and shooting hot juice.
    3) wicks need to be neat and trained away from the coil. This ensures good airflow over and around the coil. If you leave it bunched up it interrupts the airflow and causes hot spots and poor flavour.
    4) The coils last forever (almost) but you need to dry burn and re-wick once a week if you run flavoured juice. I do it when the vapour production drops off. It takes less than five minutes to do the regular maintenance and needs minimal tools (some wick and some scissors to cut it with, mostly). Running with a fresh wick is a joy, so you can do it more often if you want - wick is cheap.
    5) I have some spare Subtank/Toptank RBA heads, and have them set up and ready to go. If I don't have time to do the maintenance I can just swap the RBA out and worry about it later (that's a trap too, if you get lazy with it).

    I don't see the point using fancy builds in these devices. I don't think the flavour is any better, and could be significantly worse. Simple airflow is the key to good flavour in these things.
    Thanks all interesting stuff, i dont have TC and tbh if i did i wouldnt know what to do with it. I do have a 30 W istick capable of 0.4 ohm build but ive only ever vaped at around 1.6 ohms all the sub ohm stuff came in when i wasnt really interested. I had a quick look at the Kanger subtank and it said i'd 30 w plus capability and in saying that if i was building my own coils id prob stick to around 1 ohm or just under. I also had a look at the siren that looked pretty cool but the disadvantage to that would be if i wanted to stick a stock coil in i couldnt. But dry buring and re wicking isnt so much of an issue as you say doesnt take a great deal of time. So i think i may go a sub tank locally or something similar and maybe check out an RBA clone on FT. You mentioned FT have an after market deck do you reckon if its not too much of a drama you could shoot me a link for it and maybe a decent RBA clone when you get a chance, no rush and thanks once again for the responses its much appreciated its all been very helpful

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben_76 View Post
    Thanks all interesting stuff, i dont have TC and tbh if i did i wouldnt know what to do with it. I do have a 30 W istick capable of 0.4 ohm build but ive only ever vaped at around 1.6 ohms all the sub ohm stuff came in when i wasnt really interested. I had a quick look at the Kanger subtank and it said i'd 30 w plus capability and in saying that if i was building my own coils id prob stick to around 1 ohm or just under. I also had a look at the siren that looked pretty cool but the disadvantage to that would be if i wanted to stick a stock coil in i couldnt. But dry buring and re wicking isnt so much of an issue as you say doesnt take a great deal of time. So i think i may go a sub tank locally or something similar and maybe check out an RBA clone on FT. You mentioned FT have an after market deck do you reckon if its not too much of a drama you could shoot me a link for it and maybe a decent RBA clone when you get a chance, no rush and thanks once again for the responses its much appreciated its all been very helpful
    Authentic RBA heads here: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...-rba-plus-coil

    People are complaining they've made the holes smaller on these too now. They might have done that when they released the toptank - that could be the real reason they've gone back to the smaller holes.

    Subtank minis are here: https://www.fasttech.com/products/3006/10004861/2769900

    Toptank mini is here: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/...i-sub-ohm-tank
    (see the tiny holes on the RBA section).

    If you want coils closer to 1 ohm then use thinner wire - 5 wraps of 28g Kanthal on 2.5mm should get you pretty close. I started off at 1 ohm but quickly progressed to sub ohm coils on these. 1 ohm is a cold vape.

    Despite this I still use lower watts than you'd expect - I'm a lazy vaper... in as much as I don't want to suck on it like a whirling dervish. Lazy stuff like when I smoked, even though the air is pretty loose. I think this is why I find the flavour between the subtank mini and the kayfun comparable - air and temperature are optimum, for me.
    Last edited by fabricator4; 01-10-17 at 08:48 AM.
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    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

  10. #10
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    If you decide to just go an rta, I'd look at the aromamizer (not the 30mm , the 24mm version). It produces great flavour , I only use 2.5mm coils as it has a small deck, but it's my fav atty for flavour, also my daily beater.


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