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Thread: Kanger protank rebuild

  1. #1
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    Kanger protank rebuild

    It’s all been done before with other clearos I guess, but I re wicked this for Mrs MG today as we ran out of replacement heads and it works a treat.

    As suspected, the flavour is better without the top wicks in place - working well on 100% VG.

    Would be a doddle with thinner R wire and a welder - I used 3mm silica, 32g kanthal and soldered silver on the ends with a jet lighter, the trick is to get it to all melt to a small blob at the end without going too far...

    Leave the wick trimming until the end or it will fall apart.

    It’s hard to keep both ends of the coil away from the body, so let one end get earthed if it wants to and keep the +ve hauled up tightish so it clears.

    Attachment 8191Attachment 8192Attachment 8193
    Last edited by mathsguy; 27-04-13 at 05:48 PM.
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    Please excuse my utter ignorance but why did you silver solder the coil tails for? I thought these would be as straight forward as a vivi nova rebuild, but I obviously must have missed something.
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  4. #4
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    Because the positive is right down the bottom of the head near the threads. As said in the kanger pro tank thread, The wire leading down to the positive will light up and burn the rubber inslulator which runs from directly under the coil to the bottom (near the threads), all you'll taste is burnt rubber. Also the kanger protank will heat up to above 50 degrees after a short amout of use.

    Even kanger themself are using NR wire on all heads, I think thats why they're only coming in 2.5ohm resistance.

    I also tried using an EVOD head on my kanger protank, others claimed they get a stiffer draw. I get NO air intake at all...
    Last edited by neofelis; 28-04-13 at 10:58 AM.
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  5. #5
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    Okay, now it makes sense. Cheers mate.
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  6. #6
    Doc
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    I recoil the evod heads which are the same. So like bk_renesis, I'm wondering why did you solder the tails?
    I just rewind them with some 32g A1 Kanthal. Works a treat.
    If its got tits or tyres, you got problems.

  7. #7
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    Just pulled apart an EVOD head. Same again, No resistance wire is being used by kanger.

    Same applies, You have the positive wire which will glow running through a piece of rubber. If you don't use NR wire, it will light up just like the coil will, this will add extra ohms, burn the rubber, and heat up the EVOD base?

    Surely you must feel it getting hot? We tried to rebuild the kanger pro tanks (4 of them) and it's the first thing we noticed after taking about 3 puffs on it, it was boiling hot.

    here is a picture of a brand new EVOD coil.
    Last edited by neofelis; 28-04-13 at 11:26 AM.
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  8. #8
    Doc
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    I call bull shit. I've done it with at least half a dozen rewinds now. The base gets slightly warm. No big deal. When doing a dry burn, the coil is the only bit that glows and the rubber doesnt burn. Taste and vape is gr8.
    In fact, I reckon the rewinds are better than standard.

    I should add this is with EVOD heads which I'm told are excactly the same.
    Last edited by Doc; 28-04-13 at 12:13 PM.
    If its got tits or tyres, you got problems.

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    I'll see your BS and raise you a
    manufacturer would skip the NR step and increase profit if they thought no one would notice an R only build...

    I wont be trying an R only build to compare as my experiences were the same as Neo's (with a stardust moons ago, but same physics) and this takes all of about 30 seconds more - all I can say is that what I did works and it works better than stock for me.
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  10. #10
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    I've got two ProTanks coming from a co-op, but the heads look similar to the Kanger T3s, which I have been rebuilding quite successfully with twisted legs. I've done about nine rebuilds, and so far absolutely no burning of the rubber grommet, and the additional stiffness of the twisted legs makes it easy to assure that the positive leg goes straight down to the center post and will not accidentally ground against the head wall. On larger RBAs like my Penelopes or the Ithaka, which have more room to work, I do normal NR/R/NR coils, but the relatively small workspace of the Kanger heads demands a smaller knot than I'm able to manage ... perhaps one of those wire welders would be useful here ...
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