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Thread: EPM charge adapter revisited

  1. #1
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    EPM charge adapter revisited

    Now that a few of the mods kicking around have a screw in charger port, its about time I revisited the charge adapter I originally built to charge my JIB.

    Charge adapter

    I went through a phase of collecting dead JIBís and pretty much all the charges that came with them were dead. What had happened was the threaded 510 connection at the end of the charging wire had come adrift. This was caused by rotating the wire and connection into the mod, and causing the 510 to wire connection to fail. The only way to do it correctly is to rotate the mod onto the connection, which is a pain, plus the possibility of crossing the very fine threads.

    Maybe some of the new EMP owners might want to build one of these. This is a quick walk through of the build.

    Head off to Ebay or Jaycar and latch on to a male and female RCA plug and socket. Some pretty fancy ones available, but the ones you are looking for are not the compression fitting type. They need to be the solder type. Just to check, unscrew the barrel and look for the solder connection on the pin and socket. There will be a clamp tab that clamps around the shielding on the wire. This doesnít matter as it will be removed.
    Look for the gold colored ones as the base metal is brass and not stainless steel. The first ones I had were stainless and its not possible to solder on the barrel. I will explain the need later.

    You will also need one 510 battery connection and one 510 Atomizer connection. You can buy them or scavenge them from on old battery and attie.
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  2. #2
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    Once all the bits are in your hand, start by unscrewing the barrel from your RCA connections, and cut off or break off the wire clamp.

    The barrel ends needs to be opened up to accept your attie and battery connections. I have a taper Burr that does a nice job, but you will need to measure and drill the barrel and aim for a tight interference fit between the fittings. It goes without saying, you are opening up the opposite end to the threads!!

    The good old standbyís of pliers and tape come into play. Doesnít have to be blue tape, but blue is the big boys color. The connections are marginally different sizes. This is the reason I am using a taper burr rather than drills. Its easier to make small adjustments to the final hole size.
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    Time for the soldering iron. Turn it on and have a beer or whiskey while it heats.

    What I do is to apply a little solder to the barrel threads. Little being the operative word!! This is the reason that the brass connections are needed, as It cant easily happen with stainless steel. The idea is that after final assembly and after testing for functionally, the threads will be heated up and the solder will melt and seal the threads, so that they cant be unscrewed.
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    Ok, find some suitable wire, and cut two pieces longer than you need. Strip and solder to both the RCA solder sockets. Itís a lot easier if you tin the wire and sockets first.

    When secure give the joins a quick continuity test, and then a small piece of heat shrink over the connection. I usually set this with the soldering iron.
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    Now assemble the plug ends onto the barrel. Take it easy as the solder on the threads might make it difficult. You should get a good start and then need a couple of pairs of pliers to ease it. Avoid crossing the threads.

    Put the battery and attie connection alongside to check how much wire you need to cut off, and then trim off the insulation ready for soldering.
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    The attie connection is slightly different, in that the center post has a hole through the middle. Tin the wire and then feed through the center pin. Donít solder at this point.

    Everything needs to be pressed into place. A block of wood with a hold drilled, plus a small socket and hammer will allow easy assembly.
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    When everything is flush with the shoulders of the connectors, a smidge of solder on the attie wire will fix it, then trim the wire.

    Check the continuity with the plugs apart, and then assembled. If everything is good, use the soldering iron to heat up the solder on the threads, and the connections. Avoid doing all at the same time, as the assembly will get hot, with the possibility of melting the internal plastic. That can happen. I did it!!!
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    Robray, I've gone to put my hat on, so I can take it off in your honour.
    This series was so good, I even put on/off my tophat.
    Very nice work.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrGruffy View Post
    Robray, I've gone to put my hat on, so I can take it off in your honour.
    This series was so good, I even put on/off my tophat.
    Very nice work.


    I know its a revisit of an old thread, but it was a learning curve for me. The mistakes I made with the first ones, were ironed out this time. As the EPM mod has made it main stream, this may be useful to some. (not many) If you are going to use the ego charging on your bastard range of mods, maybe you can use it as well, with the addition of an 510 / ego adapter. Have fun!!
    Because I trust no-one Who tells me FACTS with no proof

  10. #10
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    Gracefully bows to the master ... Robray thanks for such an excellent photo essay ... !!!
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    EPM V2-18490 (X2 ),GP Spheroid V2.5 and GP Piccolo V2.5 ,BBCB, Provari mini's, REO mini V2.1, 18490 REO , Jazz Carto Pipes ( fitted with GA tank and churchwarden stem Totally Evil!!! ), Meerschaum pipe ,e-holly35W,Phideas, AIOS,Taifun atties, PC Pipe mods.PC Squonker, Svapiamo squonker, GP Paps Heron combo.

    Vaping since 2007 totally smoke free since 2011


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