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Thread: Mod Competition-Voting Thread

  1. #1
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    Mod Competition-Voting Thread

    Big kudos to all entrants, as well as the people who encouraged the modders along the way

    For back ground reading, see this thread: Competition-Build a Mod

    We have 5 entries for this competition, I will use the first 5 replies here to post them, so please donít reply until they are all posted.

    Judging is open to public vote by all members, moderators, and Aussie vendors.

    This is a handicap event. I encourage voters to factor in the modderís circumstances surrounding the making. Some of the mods constructed are made by veteran modders with great sheds, others by first timers, and some by experienced modders lacking access to tools. So think of this when placing your votes. These things should become apparent in the build logs.

    Each voter gets a total of 6 votes, in a brownlow format. For northern staters, this means you give 3 votes to your best choice, 2 votes to the next best, and 1 vote for next. Discussion is encouraged, so feel free to elaborate on rationale of your votes.

    Voting will be open for one week, Iíll try to keep a running tally, so if you wish to change your vote for any reason, please quote your original vote and post any changes needed.

    Participating modders may vote, but not for themselves. I think FM and GT will know from IP addresses if chriscross registers 15 new accounts to vote for herself, but feel free to encourage lapsed AVF members back to vote for your mod.

    In case you missed it in the building thread, 1st prize is $150 via paypal, 2nd prize is $50 from xx [unsure how she wants to go about that] and 3rd place is $30 from fatman to be spent at supersports600 ebay store.
    btobw and laurie9300 like this.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by rotten View Post
    OK, I will try and do a build log.
    Initially I wanted to do a 40w squonker but due to some health issues at the moment I decided that was going to be too much, and ended up deciding on the horn style pipe. I have built one talon pipe before from red gum burl which is rough as guts, but it works and works well. Obviously I wanted to do better this time around. I had a piece of aus hardwood laying around from a friend that has awesome grain lines and swirls in it. I wanted it to be a sitter and feel good n balanced.
    I did drawings, to scale even and matched the grain of the wood to that. The lines, swirls etc are intentional. I cut my blank using a hand held saw and marked out the holes to be drilled. Most pipes you see will have the 510, stem coming off the side of the pipe, mine goes on a slight angle which posed a few challenges. I had to leave wood in the middle to fix the neg spring while having a way to get the pos and neg wires to the 510. To do this I used a spade bit from the switch end so that I had a hole, and solid wood left behind. Then I had to drill from the 510 end and bloody hope I measured my angles right to get to the hole only from the spade bit, which I did using my trusty hand held makita Happy Chappy
    After that I begun shaping some bulk off with a flappy disc, most shaping was done with simple files though. This took hrs, as did the initial sanding. There are pics earlier in the thread. Then I had to drill-file a groove from the switch to the spring so the wire would be out of the batts way, and cut a groove in the solid wood I left for the spring. The spring is as wide as the hole so I didnt have much room.
    The switch itself is an lpg clone cut down, with a groove cut in to solder into. It's stainless which means you need silver solder, which also means a propane torch is required to get it to melting temps. I used silver solder on the spring and 510 as well. Copper car audio wire was used for the wiring which was shrink wrapped afterwards. The 510 is a 30mm Fatdaddy. It just looked better than the 22mm and I wasn't sure how the pipe would look with a 22mm atty on it. I needed to leave some bulk for strength and to keep it streamlined. I was a Happy Chappy again when she fired
    After that came hrs of shaping, filing, sanding and steel wooling before I decided it was done and I could apply the poly. The poly was easy as thanks to sv.
    The pipe is 18650 for balance and safety. To change batts out you just unscrew the switch and out they slide.

    So that's the build log. I need to thank a few peeps who offered bits or even piffed me bits over time to get this done. @studiovape, @Laurie9300, @ Dogman and finally @pcan68. Kudos to all entrants too, it's been fun.
    I'm so impressed with my freehand horn pipe, made by me, to be kept by me . Thanks doggie and others for coming up with this. It helped get me in the shed again, Cheers

    Lastly, can someone add the 2 pics from last night to this post before it gets sent elsewhere? I just can't work out how to double quote? Pics are mixed sorry but you'll work it out.

    http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160626/87dc9d69d89180318c320f5648feb1ce.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160626/3e3c493c795c7013c114de5e0c969c9e.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by rotten View Post
    Just a teaser tonight sorry. Pipe is still very tacky and I don't want to get this far to stuff it getting pics.


    sent from my emptying glass
    rotten .

  3. #3
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    ChrisCross entry one

    Quote Originally Posted by Crisscross View Post
    Pictorial and build notes

    1 Blush




    2 case




    3 tube




    Build notes.

    Parts list
    1 510 connector Fasttech SKU 2038801 converted to a bottom feed connector.
    Switch - eBay 12mm momentary switch.
    1 Sigelei kick - Fasttech
    Bottle and tube - parts borrowed from a Reo
    1 small battery spring Fasttech SKU1208510
    Assorted wires from other things in the work box and shed
    Heat shrink tubes from local auto electrician.
    Copper strip (salvaged from track lighting) for battery connections
    Door Magnets - EBay
    Varnish

    Wood Case by Baz
    Block - Stabilised olive - George's timber
    Saw
    Glue
    Sandpaper
    Clamps
    Drills (dremel, drill press or hand held)

    Tube by XX
    Stainless steel tube
    DIY inks made from sharpie permanent markers and isopropyl alcohol
    Various pipettes and bottles (from DIY eliquid stash)


    Build.....Case by Baz
    The process is the same as for the other mods.
    Cut to oversize, drill channels, holes and sand to correct size.

    10 thin coats of wipe on poly varnish with fine wet sanding on the last couple of coats. Ideally the finish needs to fully cure and harden for at least a week or two before finish can be buffed to achieve the piano shine.

    Build.....510 connector. Centre pin of the Fasttech 510 connector was replaced with a bottom feed pin. Instructions for a DIY were found on ECF using different gauge blunt needles, however in this case I borrowed the lower piece from a broken terminator.

    Build.....Decorative tube by Crisscross
    Inks are made by taking the inner filling of sharpie permanent markers and soaking them in isopropyl alcohol. Left for 24-48 hours. (1 sharpie 50mls of alcohol). This makes a strong ink that can be diluted again for various effects.
    Alcohol inks can also be bought but they are a bit expensive (adirondack brand is easy to work with and has lots of colours)

    Clean the SS tube thoroughly. Inks are then dripped on the SS tube to mix and blend. Spray iso for different effects and thickness of coating.
    Finished tube can be clear coated if needed and of course different coloured tubes will change the look of the mod.

    Alternative.....Any rigid decorative sheet (embossed, coloured, metals etc) can be attached to the inside of the door panel to achieve different effects,

    As an aside we have another slice of the block to make a second door panel without the squonking hole.

  4. #4
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    Cheers mate

    sent from my emptying glass
    laurie9300 and DogMan like this.

  5. #5
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    Laurie9300...

    Quote Originally Posted by laurie9300 View Post
    I am proud to present (I think?)..................

    The Vapergeddon Mod!



    Here's the Build Log............. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3D...ew?usp=sharing

    I nearly called it "The Pipe Bomb", but thought that was probably a bad idea. "The Plumbers Mod?"

    And video proof it actually works!

    http://vid1095.photobucket.com/album...608_062955.mp4

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by studiovape View Post
    Build Journey Pics, minus a few processes here and there, but the bulk of it.

    I present the SV Willow40

    The Plan:


    The PLAN Mod comp by Thomas Studios, on Flickr

    The Work:


    [IMG]Part A by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]


    [IMG]Part B by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]


    [IMG]Part C by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]


    [IMG]Part D by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]



    The screen fell of.........FFS, all efforts to operate on the critical DNA40 were unsuccessful and a new donor had to be sought and a painful transplant took place


    [IMG]Part E by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]


    And the Result of all this:


    End Result Mod comp by Thomas Studios, on Flickr
    studiovape

  7. #7
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    merexy....

    Quote Originally Posted by merexy View Post
    As per Doggy's request, a condensed post about my build and some pics of the innards.

    Started out with demolishing a very cheap mod for bits.



    But soon realised these bits were not going to work, neither did they on the original....
    I progressed to thinking about some of my favourite switches, Microstick and K100 and the tap washer sprang to mind. This was the prototype.



    And ended up with these bits. A chunk of Black Heart Sassafras, Huon Pine, a 510 and the washer and spring assembly.



    The next step was to actually mock it up and see if it would work.



    And at this point it did thanks to a rubber band!



    Then came the labourious task of making it able to be disassembles and reassembled multiple times with a good fit. I think I made about 8 tops due to stuff ups and the like. Biggest problem was that I decided to downsize the top and bottom for aesthetics which made the top very hard to "machine" (even though it was done by hand). I ended up with this before the final shape and finish.



    And after the harrowing finishing process....



    Pulled down, she looks like this.



    Top view of the battery housing.



    And a close up of the top with switch and base.



    Whew! Unfortunately I do not have a picture of the grief it caused me but rest assured I am scarred for life!!!

  8. #8
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    chriscross entry #2

    Quote Originally Posted by Crisscross View Post
    Mod competition entry. Crisscross & Baz

    Most of you will know that the mods we build are a team effort and could not be made without the meticulous woodworking skills of Baz. Over a lifetime of working together we recognise each other's skills and weaknesses and when those skills come together it produce some lovely mods. It's a great partnership and we both have a huge sense of achievement whenever I use one of the mods.

    Baz is not a member here but that does not stop him taking a keen interest in the AVF group. .....In fact you will see him haunting woodworking forums where his true passion lies but none the less his contribution to our vaping arsenal is unmistakeable and unique and both of us are thrilled he is a part of this project.


    Build Pictorial & Notes

    Components


    Proof of concept


    Base mod


    Surface Finishing


    Panels



    Almost there


    Crisscross - Shine lives


    TLDR:
    Build notes.

    Parts list

    1 subox mini (styled) chip Fasttech SKU 3811500
    1 510 connector Fasttech SKU 2038801
    1 small battery spring Fasttech SKU1208510
    Assorted wires from other things in the work box and shed
    Heat shrink tubes from local auto electrician.
    Copper strip (salvaged from track lighting) for battery connections
    Door Magnets - EBay


    Wood case by Baz
    Red gum
    Saw
    Glue
    Sandpaper
    Clamps
    Drills (dremel, drill press or hand held)

    Panels by Crisscross
    Embossing tools - hand or machine including files for finishing the edges.
    Metal sheet - Pewter sheet - EBay
    Various other panel materials
    3m glue sheets
    Buttons - eBay snap on buttons and spare MVP buttons
    Glue - EBay E-600 jewellery glue (multi medium adhesive)
    Varnish weather conditions limited our choice of finish. So 10 coats of wipe on poly varnish and a hand buff with burnishing compound.


    Build - Wood case by Baz

    Wood was sliced from a cured piece of red gum firewood. Drum sanded to slightly oversize and allowed to relax

    A template of holes was drawn to help to get neat cutouts in chip faceplate and for the 510 connection. Drill the holes and cutout in the chip face plate. The box is a mitre corner construct. It was glued and allowed to cure including centre stabilising bar. This bar has small drilled holes for wires to feed through to battery and 510

    Battery terminals are constructed using scrap copper strip from some old track lighting we have lying around bent around a small spacer block of matching wood. These spacer blocks are then glued into the case ready for the soldering of the chip.

    Danish oil is used to seal the inside of the case.

    Magnets were then inserted into case and door (This is the bit we always mess up, the little magnets tend to flip and stick to all the wrong places). The pewter adds a bit more weight to the door panel so longer more powerful versions of the magnets were used. This ended up being unnecessary as we went with just the single face panel. No one will accuse this mod of having a loose door. Additional crowbar may be required to,change battery.

    Panel bed was cutout with dremel grinding bits and the edges of the box are hand sanded to soften the feel.

    10 thin coats of wipe on poly varnish with fine wet sanding on the last couple of coats. Ideally the finish needs to fully cure and harden for at least a week or two before finish can be buffed to achieve the piano shine.

    Build - Panels by Crisscross

    After a lot of embossing prototyping with various metal sheets of different thicknesses and strength I decided upon bonded pewter. This is two thin layers of lead free pewter laminated either side of a piece of blank card stock. 3M glue sheets were used as the bonding medium in-between the layers. Rolled with a hard roller and left to cure. Once the bonded sheet is cured it was then cut to oversize and embossed.

    Once the panel bed was cutout in the case, the embossed pewter was trimmed to size, filed carefully, then E-600 glue is used to affix the panel to wood case. This glue is excellent for using on multiple materials. For a less permanent panel double sided glue sheets can be used. The original design had panels on both the case and door but the design looked too busy and added unnecessary weight, so a single face panel was installed.

    For variety the panels can be carefully removed and changed to whatever takes your fancy.

    Some examples (refer pic) include: carbon fibre sheet, wraps or stickers, shimmer sheets and embossed foils or metal sheets. Each has their own style and can change the overall look and feel of the mod. These particular example materials are waterproof but any material could be used with a decoupage finish or spray coating.

    Another nice idea is mother of pearl shell sheets. By themselves the sheets are fragile but you can order with a backing and even some with an adhesive backing. These would need some form of hard clear coating to have longevity on a mod. Even laminate samples collected from your local hardware shop can be used as an alternate panel. Cut to size with saw and sand edges. The choices are only limited by your imagination. Refer BB panel modification thread for source links.

    Panel template is 28x84. A depth of 1.5mm Was chosen to accommodate ..75mm panel plus raised embossing plus glue layer.

    Notes to using Pewter. Some pewter sheets have lead in them which is fine for objects that are not handled regularly. The pewter used in this panel is a lead free .2mm thick sheet. Soft enough to emboss but making it rigid enough to provide structural support to the wood case required bonding. There is also .5mm option but it added considerable weight so was decided against.

    Final Embossing design - Darice borders - pansy flourish
    Pewter embossing is quite easy to do as the sheets accept the pressure embossing very well.


    Buttons

    I put decorative fire buttons on most of my mods and this was no different,

    The original decorative fire button was constructed using the top part of a snap button with the spikes ground down. This is then superglued to a cubis coil pin. Small up and down buttons are from an old MVP.

    After seeing it on the completed mod we changed to one of Baz's acrylic button caps (originally designed for the BB's). That way I can mix and match my driptips to it.

  9. #9
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    Voting Open

    I would assume modders will answer questions, should you have them
    Fatman, laurie9300 and rotten like this.

  10. #10
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    Great job Doggie! Well done and thanks for the comp! My best to my fellow builders, they are all bloody awesome jobs. I wish I could vote for them all! Pity some of those that had the initial interest did not get done. Hopefully next time.
    Fatman, laurie9300, rotten and 1 others like this.

 

 
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