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Thread: Rebuildable Cubis Coil for the eGo Box AIO

  1. #1
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    Rebuildable Cubis Coil for the eGo Box AIO

    The eGo Box AIO (referred herein as AIO) has recently been released, with 0.6Ω vertical coils the standard. In practice, I found these passable but give me a dry tasting vape as if the coil isn't wicking properly, and they do not provide the most flavourful vape.

    I tried a 1.0Ω coil from one of my other Cubis equipped mods with little success, getting a dry hit and burning the wick. Doh I also have a firm preference for horizontal coils instead of vertical coils and all Cubis coils are orientated vertical. So what do we do?

    Well, the AIO does not allow the Cubis RBA head to fit as the inner diameter of the tank (or part thereof) is smaller than the largest OD of the RBA head, so that can't be used as standard without turning down the OD of the RBA, and the AIO does not have a replaceable air tube like the other Cubis tank top caps. Bit of a blow to rebuilders

    Not to be out witted by this, I resolved to convert the now stuffed 1.0Ω coil to a horizontally orientated, rebuildable coil.

    Firstly, we need to understand how the coil head works in regards to liquid and air flow. I stripped the coil assembly of the original coil and wicking material so I could see these. I noticed that all fluid channels (air and liquid) are cut into an inner sleeve which is then pressed into the outer sleeve which has the threads cut into it to allow the coil assembly to screw to the top cap of the tank, and the knurling on it's OD to allow more grip.

    And, apologies for the one or two fuzzy photos



    Fluid inlets, situated at the very bottom of the coil assembly.





    And this is where the eliquid exits the body and made available to the wicking material that wraps the vertical coil.





    Air inlets, at the top of the coil assembly, and just below the threading.





    And this is where the air exits the body. Note that this is under the coil (when assembled), allowing the air to move through the centre of the standard coil and up through the air tube and mouthpiece. Also note that these are at 90 to the fluid inlets.




    Cont'd ...
    Last edited by gtadmin; 31-08-16 at 03:46 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Cont'd

    The first thing to consider is what to do with both the liquid inlets and outlets. When using the RBA head in other Cubis equipped devices, I make and fit a little delrin toroid that blocks the liquid inlets which otherwise, when using the RBA in horizontal mode, promote flooding of the coil assembly. The RBA head has liquid inlet slots in the sides as well, something the standard coils don't. Well, they do they're just hidden behind the outer sleeve's casing.

    Pondering this, I came up with the idea of drilling straight through the casing in the same spot as the internal liquid outlets, and feeding my wick through these holes. This obsoletes the bottom liquid inlets, which may still feed the wick but not the inner chamber as such and so do not require blanking.

    The next consideration is the size of the hole to be drilled. Because I am using pre-coiled, spaced NiChrome coils (10 for $1.15US) which have a core diameter of 3mm, that is the size I used.

    After drilling, with the 3mm drill still inserted through the two holes.




    Coiling the beastie is a snap, grab one of the premade coils, insert it from the bottom, poke the 3mm drill through the casing and the coil, push the insulator in at the bottom trapping one wire between the insulator and the casing (this is now the negative lead), push the positive pin into the insulator trapping the second wire, trim the excess leads and it's done.




    Note: this was the easiest recoil I have ever done in my life


    Cont'd ...
    Last edited by gtadmin; 31-08-16 at 02:53 PM. Reason: Added note
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  3. #3
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    Cont'd

    Next up, wicking this a is very simple process (I'm using rayon) ... grab a suitable width of rayon about 25mm long, moisten and roll the end to a point trimming off any loose bits, and insert straight through the holes in the casing and the coil itself. Because my holes are 3mm, I used half the width of Sally's Rayon.




    And side on




    Trimming the wick in the correct shape is important as we want a few strands of the wick to extend to the bottom of the tank so that we can utilise the capacity of the tank, and trim the remainder off as we don't want to disturb the wick whilst inserting the assembly into the tank. This was the first crack at it, I have trimmed it some more but didn't snap a photo of it.




    Cont'd ...
    Last edited by gtadmin; 31-08-16 at 03:10 PM.
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  4. #4
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    Cont'd

    We are now at the stage where the coil itself has been rebuilt and if it was assembled on the tank top cap and screwed to the mod, would fire and produce vapour but the airflow is all messed up and whatever vapour produced would be anemic. This is because there is a rather large space between the coil and the airtube in the top cap, and there is nothing to direct the airflow into those air inlets (shown above) down through the casing wall and out the air outlets (also shown above). In the original coil, the coil and wicking material provides that functionality.

    I turned up a little delrin spacer to do that.




    The spacer has a 3.2 hole through it, and is chamfered internally at the coil end to provide a smooth transition for the vapour to flow through. The coil end of the spacer fills the cavity above the coil (easy sliding fit) locating the spacer diametrically, the centre collar locates the spacer in the correct position longitudinally and allows air to enter the air inlets in the casing, and the small spigot mates to the airtube in the tank's top cap when it's screwed down.


    Moment of discovery: Assembled the coil and new air tube, screwed it onto the tank's top cap and then screwed that onto the AIO and hit the fire button. Yay success ... and the new coil outperforms the stock 0.6Ω coil in moistness and flavour whilst still providing more than adequate vapour.
    Last edited by gtadmin; 31-08-16 at 03:31 PM.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtadmin View Post
    Cont'd

    Placeholder

    Hurry up-----------
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robray View Post
    Hurry up-----------
    SWMBO decided we should do unimportant things, like go shopping Doesn't she realise how critical this is?

    Soonish mate
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  7. #7
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    And done


    Whilst the actual rebuilding of the coil can be performed by just about anyone with access to an electric drill, the new air tube could be a stumbling block unless you have access to a lathe. But I'm sure there will be a workaround for that
    Last edited by gtadmin; 31-08-16 at 03:40 PM.
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  8. #8
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    Thanks for that. A picture is worth a thousand words. Shame I don't use these, but some ideas spring to mind. Just waiting for the Tesla Shadow tanks coil to crap out!!
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtadmin View Post
    [...] the new air tube could be a stumbling block unless you have access to a lathe. But I'm sure there will be a workaround for that
    GT Manufacturing Inc

    :-D
    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

  10. #10
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    This is great!........but I'm a little confused....

    In the original coil, the air enters the 2 side channels, flows down through the jacket, out thought the two holes at the bottom into the centre chamber, then up through the coil and out through the chimney.......correct?

    You have now removed the top cap from the coil and discarded it? I didn't see that mentioned?

    You have replaced the coil top cap with the patented GT Delrin replacement cap?

    If so, this cap has the 2 flats on it, like the original, to allow air into the jacket?

    As you know I have been rebuilding these coils and have successfully replaced the original top caps, have you tried this?
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