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Thread: Best Method To Recoil Genesis Atty

  1. #1
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    Best Method To Recoil Genesis Atty

    In this video from Zen there is a part that shows you the easiest way recoil. The fastest method to get rid of all the shorts and you will never....ever pop any more coil again.

    Go to 2:08 - 4:42 and from 12:28 - 15:48 for the information


    Last edited by Vinny; 30-09-12 at 01:37 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Nice, haven't seen that one yet.

    Heh.. next up, building coils with santa claus.
    Vinny and Bullos like this.

  3. #3
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    Love the Allen key set up on the Z.
    Vinny likes this.
    Move along!!! Nothing to see here.

  4. #4
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    Yeah I've seen the video and it's not a bad one. I wouldn't call it the best method for rebuilding but I would say it's a good one.

    What you can do, if you don't own a VV mod is to use an eGo or a battery with low charge.
    Obviously you can't use a ProVari with a hybrid, so I usually rebuild towards the end of the day when the battery is quite low.

    I still stand by the rollie paper, works every time for me. You can still get a short at the top wrap though but it's generally fixed by pushing up the top wrap.
    Everyone rebuilds differently, all that matters is that it works for you.

    Also, if you're using the Zen and you use it with insulator, put a needle tip in the wick. It helps to keep the wick sturdy while you rebuild it.
    Vinny likes this.

    (*Susceptible to sloppy moderation)

  5. #5
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    Is this the same clip as whats on vapebar thats below the 'Zap for sale' ?


     photo images-4_zps2e1bab4e.jpeg

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by kritikal View Post
    Yeah I've seen the video and it's not a bad one. I wouldn't call it the best method for rebuilding but I would say it's a good one.

    What you can do, if you don't own a VV mod is to use an eGo or a battery with low charge.
    Obviously you can't use a ProVari with a hybrid, so I usually rebuild towards the end of the day when the battery is quite low.

    I still stand by the rollie paper, works every time for me. You can still get a short at the top wrap though but it's generally fixed by pushing up the top wrap.
    Everyone rebuilds differently, all that matters is that it works for you.

    Also, if you're using the Zen and you use it with insulator, put a needle tip in the wick. It helps to keep the wick sturdy while you rebuild it.
    Have to agree with Krit & the rollie paper method, everyone that I have seen post using that method has said it works flawlessly. In my own small experience, I have only used rollie paper method & had no problems at all.
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  7. #7
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    bugzme seems to be. Very much how i got my DID + cobra working for the first time. Find the hot spots/shorts and go from there!

  8. #8
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    I can't see how the wick shouldn't touch the bottom of the tank!

    The coil is joined to the base at the top under the screw, and the whole of the atty provides the ground for the coil all the way to the bottom of the tank!
    The coil is insulated from the wick by the oxidizing process!

    The video provides some solid advice on how to get the coils firing evenly, however, the issue I see written about the most, is the problem in oxidizing the wick properly in the first place!
    What Zen talks about with regard to the mesh being used and the wicking properties being the same, is correct IMO, and from my own testing with different mesh the results I have found is a different flavor with the same juice!

    That you should have to tip your device to have it work properly is crap!

    If the wick is working properly there should be no need to tip whatsoever!
    When I build a wick and do a test fire on it, I can see the wick has dried slightly, but as I watch I can see the juice moving back up the wick again, without the need to tip at all,
    all through the capillary action of the wick itself!
    I can give details if any are interested, most of what I see is old stuff rehashed, or this works for me, or any thing else that happens along the way that sounds good!
    Good people following bad advice!
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  9. #9
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    sure, just a few hints would be good, how tight to roll, idea of method .. i still have to tip my gennies or dry hits for me ..

    i think the no touching the bottom is a joke mostly too, obviously it will make ZERO difference if the heater is insulating, however if there is a single short between heater and wick then different things will happen depending on if there is also one to the base or not.
    Vinny likes this.
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  10. #10
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    Basic wick Building!

    I use #grade mesh of choosing, #325 #400 #500, anything that you have!

    Size, I use 80mm long by X width/height, whatever your device requires.

    1: Oxidizing:
    The method that works consistently well for me is to heat the mesh while it is flat!
    Both sides until glowing, just insuring that the whole surface is covered, once only!
    (this should eliminate any shorting if the wick touches the bottom of the tank from the centre coils)

    2: Rolling:
    Anything round to begin with, as an aid to starting out!
    Continuing to roll until the centre begins to disappear, all but NO Central hole!
    The wick will be pliant and still soft at this point, I then heat the wick again,
    which will stiffen the mesh (Stiffen the wick) try for size in hole and cut to length if necessary!
    Roll again to ensure the edges are not loose, I like to heat again at this point,
    (only to burn off any oils from your fingers, which may taint the wick)

    3: Coil:
    I particularly like Zen's video tutorial on this, and urge people to watch and learn!

    I have been getting consistent results from the method I use,
    and if anyone gets a better result with this method when building their RBA's!
    Then my jobs done!

    PS. I have three DID's, Standard, Short and Mini, So I have been building my RBA's using the DID as my working model!

    Happy and consistent Vaping without frustration!
    Stoney, chilli and Vinny like this.

 

 
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