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Thread: protank ohms

  1. #1
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    protank ohms

    Ego spinners,

    whats the best ohms for protank 2s (mini ajd standard) ... love vapor.
    70vg juice or 50/50

  2. #2
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    recoil 1.3 ohms.

  3. #3
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    lol.

    i've heard you gotta start low with the protanks or they burn wick and juice.

    also with my kanger products i remove the flavour wicks...remove the centre post by wiggling and remove one of the standard flavour wicks leaving one behind. flavour wicks sit on top of the coil which has the main wick threaded through it.

    if your high vg juice is dry hitting... either remove the other flavour wick or turn the silicone grommet upside down...or both?



    I don't need squat for ages, i just went shopping.
    $1800.61 Spent on Vaping so far, stocked up for 2 years @ 8ml/per day.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by oznewbie View Post
    Ego spinners,

    whats the best ohms for protank 2s (mini ajd standard) ... love vapor.
    70vg juice or 50/50
    Standard off the shelf heads? I like 2.2 ohms because they work well on a mechanical as well without much fussing. If you look at the card that comes with the Protanks, you'll see recommendations for voltages at given resistance. These equate to around 6 to 6.5 watts. I find 3.8V at 2.2 ohms optimal. Different coil resistances at the prescribed voltages are going to give you equivalent results.

    Given that you're using a High VG juice you'll certainly want to flip the rubber cap over. I highly recommend this with the mini Protank 2 in any case, because there's not much space for the air bubbles to come off the wicks. It seems it can get trapped against the wick if you don't deal with the cap, resulting in a dry hit after a few minutes. If you're still having wicking problems, try removing one or more of the flavour wicks as Samtron suggested however if you then have problems with flooding it means you removed too much.

    With 70/30 juice it's only necessary to flip the cap over.

    Operating temperature seems to affect these BCC devices more than anything else. Because of all the metal and glass they take a few minutes to get warm, and may not produce as much vapour when they are cold. Flooding on a half full tank is also a common symptom.

    ETA:
    The vision spinner probably is not going to be happy with coils much under 1.8 ohms, and may not fire on a coil less than 1.5 ohms. They're not really a high current device. Also, if you go under 1.8 ohms it will be quite difficult to keep the power levels at the Kanger recommendations. 1.8 ohms is about 3.4 V.
    Last edited by fabricator4; 01-10-13 at 10:32 AM.
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    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

  5. #5
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    2.2 at 3.8 sounds good.

    il give that a go.

    I have a vamo (thanks to gresh), so can measure ohms.

    I currently have an evoD 1.8ohm, with vapeking 50/50. At 3.7v? This sound ok? On long draws it tastes burnt.

    getting decent hit. Whats tge optimal setting for this?

    so 2.2 at 3.8v. Im looking a fuss free, swap coil, work setup. My vamo will stay at home.

    I flip the oring. No problems there.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by oznewbie View Post
    2.2 at 3.8 sounds good.

    il give that a go.

    I have a vamo (thanks to gresh), so can measure ohms.

    I currently have an evoD 1.8ohm, with vapeking 50/50. At 3.7v? This sound ok? On long draws it tastes burnt.

    getting decent hit. Whats tge optimal setting for this?

    so 2.2 at 3.8v. Im looking a fuss free, swap coil, work setup. My vamo will stay at home.

    I flip the oring. No problems there.
    Yes, 3.7V is a little hot for a 1.8 ohm coil. V^2/R=3.7*3.7/1.8= 7.6 watts. Toasty. Once the heat builds up the juice will start to burn on the coil, it tastes funny, and the flavour stays on the wick and can even backwash into the clearo.

    For a 1.8 ohm coil I would recommend 3.3v (6 watts) to 3.4v (6.5 watts) depending on the juice. Considering you are using 50% VG 6 watts might be a better option. If you don't get much vapour after the clearo has warmed up it might mean the coil is all crusty. Swap it out or clean it up.
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    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

  7. #7
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    So the higher the v,olts, watts, ohms ghe better the vape?

    ie. 1.8ohm at 3.3v wont be as good as a 2.2 at 3.8V?

  8. #8
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    I was working on ohms + 2.0 for volts.

    ie. 1.8ohm + 2 = 3.8v

  9. #9
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    6w on the 1.8evod is vaping nicely
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by oznewbie View Post
    So the higher the v,olts, watts, ohms ghe better the vape?

    ie. 1.8ohm at 3.3v wont be as good as a 2.2 at 3.8V?
    No, you're looking for the Goldilocks zone, neither too cold (not enough vapour, flavour, or throat hit) nor too hot (muted flavour, burnt, dry)


    Quote Originally Posted by oznewbie View Post
    I was working on ohms + 2.0 for volts.

    ie. 1.8ohm + 2 = 3.8v
    That is the standard rule of thumb for 8 watts. It's good for a lot of top coil devices but more specifically for rebuildables and dripping atomisers. For BCC devices, not so much...

    If the maths is a bit hard to do on the run, here's a table I just made up for you:



    The green column is resistance lookup line
    The blue column is the voltage that will give 6 watts
    The purple column is the voltage that will give 6.5 watts
    Just for fun the yellow column is the current that will be passing though the coil. You don't really need to know this at this stage, just an interesting fact to keep in mind.

    ETA: It's pretty self explanatory, but I should probably add that you look down the resistance column to find the resistance of your device, then look across to get the voltage at either 6 or 6.5 watts. eg: a 1.8 coil would require 3.29v for 6 watts, or 3.42v for 6.5 watts. Of course on most devices you will need to round these values to the closest 0.1, hence 3.3v and 3.4v respectively.
    Last edited by fabricator4; 01-10-13 at 10:34 PM. Reason: Added Table
    Saxien, Samtron and oznewbie like this.
    Chris: Tobacco free since 17:00 15th March 2013.

 

 
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