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Thread: The Device Info and ecig terms Thread

  1. #1
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    The Device Info and ecig terms Thread

    will edit and add as I get time and inclination
    hopefully we can make a one stop shop for noobs to refer too.
    Any way we can make a wiki page on this forum ? or know a good one we can link to.

    Principles
    electronic cigarette evaporates a base liquid containing flavours and/or nic for inhalation.
    Glossary

    306 .. A small 510 threaded atomiser.
    510 .. atomiser with a male thread.
    901 .. atomiser with a female thread. not compatible with 510
    Adapter .. a dual threaded device for fitting for eg a 901 atty on a 510.
    Analogue .. a real cigarette. don't ask me why, suspect digital/analogue where digital is an electronic ciggy so..
    Atomiser (atty) .. a heater that carts plug into, 3 part ecig.
    Boge Carto .. a simple and easy to use carto with good performance, a simple pop off silicon cap, can also be fitted with a drip tip.
    Cartridge (cart) .. removable juice holder for atty use.
    Cartomiser (carto) .. a heater with inbuilt juice holder. 2 part ecig.
    CE2 .. catromiser edition 2, these are a nice carto with a tricky method to fill, a syringe is required for filling.
    Doubler .. a 0 nic, double strength flavour intended to be used in 50/50 mixes with nic juice.
    Dripping .. a method of using an atomiser without the cart and adding small quantitys of liquid as required.
    Drip Tip .. a mouthpiece tube that fits on an atty with a large hole in top to allow easy dripping.
    Fill .. absorbent material inside a cart or a carto to hold the juice, can be made from alternate materials, original is a polyester type fibre.
    HV atty .. an atty designed for higher voltage vaping, not for use with standard batterys due to low power.
    HV mod .. a dual battery or boosted supply mod to allow higher power vaping.
    Juice .. see below, the actual liquid. expect to use 5ml or less in a day. YMMV .. see vape whore.
    LR atty, eg 510LR .. lower resistance than standard, eg 1.6Ω when standard is 2.2Ω
    Mesh .. a nickel foam in appearance, used as a reservoir inside attys. or a air/juice seperator ??
    Mod .. an ecig typically containing a removable cell. Often capable of higher voltage or current than the mainstream devices.
    Nic .. nicotine, available in various strengths. see below
    Noob .. new vaper, due to quick learning curve required to even start, usually a real noob for a week only.
    PEG400 Polyethylene glycol 400, a base material to add flavour and/or nicotine to
    PG Propylene Glycol, a base material to add flavour and/or nicotine to.
    Throat Hit .. bitey feeling in the back of throat, usually desired to give a smoking feeling, increased by nic strength but varys with voltage and mod and juice.
    TH .. see Throat Hit
    Vaper .. he who vapes
    Vaping .. what we do, its not smoking after all, there is no combustion.
    Vape whore .. (Slothy ) .. someone who inhales every breath I think .. 10ml a day, increase nic strength to help with this.
    VG Vegetable Gycerin or Glycerol. a base material to add flavour and or nicotine to. readily available from supermarkets,pharmacys, use BP grade only.
    VV mod .. a variable voltage device.
    Wick .. silica strands that carry juice to the heater element, non meltable.


    510 battery

    Smallish cigarette sized battery standard 510 thread. 3.2V regulated.

    PROS .. Industry standard, cheap, small, lots of colours, good power to weight. manual and auto available.

    CONS .. low battery life for heavy use. dedicated 105mA charger, fixed low voltage.


    510 Mega XL battery

    As above but a larger 280 mAh battery.


    Ego battery

    Big brother to the 510, standard 510 fitting with a larger diameter battery. Available in 650,900,1000 mAh versions, same diameter but different lengths. Has a second thread on the the atomiser end to fit a cone shaped housing, cosmetic and changes draw. Regulated 3.2v output. Indicator light on button. Newer versions have a 5 click option to turn device on and off. Lots of colour options.

    PROS .. great battery life, industry standard, accepts LR atomisers, various atomiser options from any 510 and the larger type A and type B atomisers and tank atomisers.
    Inexpensive, great power to weight. Short circuit protection usually effective, light will flash with shorted atty. Some evidence that attys under 1.2Ω may cause failure.

    CONS .. fixed low voltage. paint can come off leaving a stainless steel shell. juice leaks can cause failure. occasional failures of internal solder joint battery wire to case.

    EGO USB PT/battery
    An ego with a built in USB B socket to allow charging.

    This or an eGo is probably the most universally recommended starting battery for new vapers.


    Riva battery
    A very similar shape size to eGo (eGo clone) that has the advantage/disadvantage of not regulating the output voltage but supplying full battery voltage at all time.
    This will vary from 4.2 down to 3.2v but will typically be 3.6v to 3.7v for most of the discharge cycle.
    Advantage: to some .. higher power into the atty compared to an eGo.
    Disadvantage: to some .. higher power burns juice easier, vape experience is inconsistent due to ever reducing cell voltage. Not all eGo atomisers fit I think. Heard of issues with tank attys not working on them. Protection circuit may not be present or as robust as eGo.

    eGo Atty styles
    eGo can take 510, 510XL/Mega ,510 tank, eGo type A, eGo type B, eGo tank, eGo tank type B atomisers. The battery connector is the same, the cartridge is different on all these.

    Starter kit
    various vendors supply a starter kit for different batterys and atomizer types. A starter kit generally includes 2 batterys and 2 atomisers and carts to suit. It is not a complete kit as it generally has no juice. A first time vaper is in my opinion served well with something like an eGo kit, tank is good and simple to use but can have frustrating leaking issues and also cleaning is tricky to impossible. I generally recommend buying a eGo kit and also a second smaller 510 kit. Mainly to give new vapers a complete back up system in case of charger failure or some other unforeseen circumstances. Also grab a 5 pack of cartos as these can be used in their own right without an atty and thus provide good backup. In general with a kit, failure of any one part may lead to being back on the cigarettes while waiting for new supplys.
    Nowadays a good starter may be too simply obtain 2 eGo USB PT batterys, these require no seperate charger and provide the same versatility as a normal eGo.


    Following also blatantly stolen from Sik

    306 - well its not a tank and you all know what it does, just a reference point.

    CE2 - Flavour is ok, not quite as pronounced as the 306, vapour production not bad, throat hit non existant without a really long draw. Very "airy" draw. Vapour seems light. Moderately warm vape.
    Pro's: Holds alot of juice, no leakage issues with mine, decent vape.
    Cons: Lack of TH and just hit in general. Have a feeling this is to do with 2.4-2.6 ohm on a 3.2 battery (really wanna try these on my VV tonight when i get home will post an update) Tiny bit fiddly to fill, requires syringe etc, not really and issue but hey.

    510-T - Actually got surprised by the 510-T, much better flavour than the eGo-T, still less than the CE2 or 306 but small tank and still icey cold. Kinda tight draw on them.
    Pro's: Easy for nubbins, no leaks, no mess. OK flavour, again no TH
    Cons: Smallish tank 0.5ml, Cold vape, lack of TH

    eGo-T Type A - Decent TH, Decent Vape, Decent size tank. Tastes like vaping through a face mask and the vape could snap freeze baby peas.
    Pros: Easy, decent vapour etc
    Cons: Tastes like vaping through a face mask and the vape could snap freeze baby peas (ah Mc'cain)

    The TH issues are most likely cuz im pretty much a perma LR user and could possibly be resolved with higher nic or voltage, but i dont really wanna up my nic and walking around with a VV is not my cup of tea. I wanna chuck clearos on a Riva and also VV and dial em in before passing final judgement but on an eGo its just a bit... light.

    My opinion on Joye Tanks in general is that they produce a cold tasteless vape, some people like it. Personally i cannot stand it, although eGo the tanks rock for convenience and portability and have a decent TH i would rather drip, so take my view on the T's with a grain of salt. The Clearos were the most flavoursome of the bunch and the 510 definately produce better flavour than the eGo although with less TH.

    Absent from my comparison are the Ego-Type A/B LR and the Standard Type B. I hear good things about the ego-t Type B, will prolly add one to my arsenal sooner or later.

    Nic
    Classified as a class 7 poison, its very dangerous in pure form so almost invariably sold in a solution of PG/VG/PEG.
    A typical analogue cigarette contains around 1mg of nicotine. Vaping is a less efficient method of nicotine intake due to various reason including lack of ammonia stabiliser and other reasons I have no idea about or care.
    Solutions range in various strengths for direct vaping from low (8mg/ml) to X.High (often 24mg/ml), so 24mg/ml nic juice is 2.4% nicotine and 97.6% base.
    Also comes in stronger solutions (36,48 and 100mg.ml are common) not recommended to vape directly but useful to add to a doubler, adding 36mg/ml at 50/50 with a doubler will result in 18mg/ml flavoured juice. Calculators are available online to assist in working out concentrations of resulting juice.
    Different strokes for different folks. But a recommended starting point for smokers is 18mg/ml or 24mg/ml. Getting a strength stronger than you may need is a better solution than weaker. You can always dilute it if to strong.
    Last edited by Stoney; 19-04-11 at 07:02 PM.
    In order of useful: Provari V2 and V1, vamo, eGo twist, Katana v3, Hex, Orion v2, LavaTube, eGo x 6, VMAX, 510N, Tick V2, Tick V1, noEgo 18650, noEgo 14650 , Indulgence x 2, 905 6v mod, KR808D



  2. #2
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    Had to split the post up .. Vbulletin only allows 10000 characters in a post

    Juice
    Blatently stolen from girlypantz
    PG and VG, both are from the glycol family, personally I prefer PG health wise as that is where I have done the most research, but I add approx 30% VG just to get more vaper and dry dryer vaper. For some people PG or VG may disagree with them but in most cases they only have trouble with one of them and the other is fine. PG gives less vapour, typically better flavour but not always, and better throat hit, VG gives denser vapour, but may mute some flavours, and has less throat hit than PG, and if you are using VG only it will need to be thinned with a little distilled water to improve wicking. At the end of the day its a preference thing.


    Electrical Theory
    A multimeter is a very useful tool for a vaper.

    So it helps to have a basic understanding of 4 terms.

    voltage (volts - V), current(amps - A), resistance (ohms - Ω) and Power(watts - W).
    A water anology helps .. imagine the battery as a water tank up on a stand with a big hose connected to it and running down to the ground.
    The heater in the atomiser or cartomiser (a resistor) as a thin pipe connected to the hose.

    The height of the water tank (or the amount the tap is on,sort of) will adjust the pressure if a hose is connected. Think of voltage as this pressure.
    Now the rate of water through the pipe will depend on its diameter. This diameter is the resistance. A thinner pipe is the same as a higher resistance.

    The amount of water flowing is the current. Its a current flow. Logically a higher current will empty the tank faster. The capacity rating of a battery is mAh, this can be thought of as litres. Its how big the tank is. Basically a 650mAh battery means it can have 650mA drawn from it for one hour before its empty. 325mA for 2 hours etc..

    Power(watts) is a bit trickier to get a correct analogy for. Its the multiplication of both the pressure (voltage) and the flow (current). effectively it could be thought of as the inertia of all the water in the pipe.
    Like a fire hose has more power than a garden hose at the same pressure, a pressure sprayer has more power than a garden hose at the same flow rate.

    This power is what we are after .. it is directly proportional to the amount of vapour from the ecig.

    The 2 basic formulas are current = volts / resistance (I = V/R) .. double the volts is double the current, half the resistance is double the current.

    and Power = volts x current (P = V.I) .. here is where it gets interesting. by a bit of maths ..

    Since P = V * I and I = V / R .. then replacing the I in equation 1 with equation 2 we get ..
    P = (V * V) / R

    ie if you half the resistance you get double the power, if you double the voltage you get 4 times the power. This is why a dual battery mod can put out 4 times the power of a single battery mod. This is because when the voltage doubles (pressure) it will also increase the flow rate (current) So you get a double doubling of the power so to speak. Changing atty resistances is sort of a fine adjustment of power, changing the voltage makes a huge adjustment in power. You cannot adjust the current by itself, you can only change it by changing the voltage or the resistance. Changing the voltage then changes both the voltage and the current, changing the resistance also changes the current .. but the main formula P = V * I .. the resistance is not mentioned.


    TBC..
    In order of useful: Provari V2 and V1, vamo, eGo twist, Katana v3, Hex, Orion v2, LavaTube, eGo x 6, VMAX, 510N, Tick V2, Tick V1, noEgo 18650, noEgo 14650 , Indulgence x 2, 905 6v mod, KR808D



  3. #3
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    feel free to add any more stuff here, I had to split the post into 2 parts as there is a 10000 character limit.

    I will keep this thread clean and delete posts that are simply info ideas..

    (edit: after adding the info of course, lol, that didnt sound right)
    Last edited by Stoney; 30-04-11 at 05:35 PM.
    In order of useful: Provari V2 and V1, vamo, eGo twist, Katana v3, Hex, Orion v2, LavaTube, eGo x 6, VMAX, 510N, Tick V2, Tick V1, noEgo 18650, noEgo 14650 , Indulgence x 2, 905 6v mod, KR808D



  4. #4
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    stolen from the internets .. google shows it in a few places. dunno who to give credit too..
    BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO VAPING
    Lets start with the habit.
    You smoke because you are addicted to nicotine, but that's about half of it. The truth is you have been sticking a cigarette in your mouth 200-600 times a day, for how many years? You enjoy the feeling and all that satisfying smoke to manipulate as it flows from your mouth. The nicotine is just a by-product of that. It's the tactile ceremony you have been performing for all those years that keeps you doing it. We are creatures of habit. The nicotine is probably 1⁄2 of it. If you quit, there are some symptoms associated with nicotine withdrawal, but the thing you miss the most is the relaxing act of smoking. That is why 90% of smoking cessation products fail and 70% of ecig users succeed.
    After a few weeks of vaping, when you try a cigarette, you taste it for what it is: burning stuff!
    E-cigarettes will still give you that, and the nicotine, but in a safer form. You are not quitting smoking, just swapping your addiction to a much safer one. You will feel the benefits very quickly. The only negative side effect is you occasionally feel a little dry in the throat. If you stick with it, you will also experience some coughing in the 2nd or 3rd week. This is your lungs shedding the tar build up that has formed there, and only lasts 2-3 days – mostly at night. It's a good thing.
    Now that you understand what you are getting yourself into, here's how it works. The ecig is comprised of three components. The cartridge, atomizer, and battery. All e-cigs are basically the same.
    Vaping is a bit different from smoking, you need to draw slowly and lightly. Unlike cigarettes, a hard puff is not going to increase vapor production. Fill your mouth slowly, it can take from 3-5 seconds, inhale and immediately exhale. Sometimes you may need to take a couple primer puffs to get the flow going. With just a little practice you'll be blowing out big clouds of safe, clean vapor that will evaporate in seconds, leaving no trace.

    THE CARTRIDGE

    The mouthpiece in the ecig when you get it is a blank, you must insert a fresh cartridge from the box in your kit. The cartridge is a plastic mouthpiece that contains a polyfill fiber wadding, much like what is in your pillow. The fibers are aligned to allow maximum flow of liquid. This is saturated with a solution of propylene glycol, (a food additive, regarded as safe by the FDA), flavoring, and nicotine. You can get this solution, (e-liquid) in many flavors and strengths of nicotine.
    The cartridges that come in your starter kit vary from high to no nicotine. The strength of nicotine is determined by the amount in 1ml of fluid. The reasoning behind this is that when first introduced, the average cartridge was thought to be equal to one pack of cigarettes, and it holds on average 1ml of fluid. The average cigarette contains 1mg of nicotine. Thus if you are using 20mg liquid strength, and your cartridge contains 1ml, the draws you take will equal the same nicotine as a cigarette. Experience has shown that a cartridge does not last that long unless it is done on a timed basis, so many draws per hour, etc.
    You will find that you vape more than you smoked. There is nothing to stop you like before when it burned down.
    Cartridges differ in size, but are a good way to measure the strength of the liquid. The wadding of the cartridge, when inserted, is always in contact with the atomizer, and the liquid flows slowly onto it.
    Keep your cartridge juicy, it should look like a slushy when full, not like a pool. The amount of drops you add is determined by how dry it is. Usually 2-4 will do the trick. Letting it get too dry can cause a burnt taste and ultimately burn out your atomizer coil, overfilling can cause leakage below the atomizer and reduced vapor. It can also cause you to draw some into you mouth. Don't panic, just spit it out. It won't hurt you in such small doses. You will eventually find the balance – it's not that hard.
    You can change the flavor of a cartridge. Simply remove the filler with some tweezers and fold it into a paper towel until it is dry, then fill the empty cart halfway with the desired juice. Reinsert the filler being careful to keep the fibers aligned, then top it off. It only takes a minute.

    THE ATOMIZER

    The atomizer is a stainless steel tube with a ceramic pot inside containing a heating coil. It is the brilliant technological part. It has an arched steel band on top that protects it. It, as well as the pot, is wrapped in 2 or 3 layers of stainless steel cloth. It also has high temp wicking material that connects the arched band to the coil. The steel cloth acts as a wick as well, ensuring that the coil and pot are always surrounded in fluid. When you take a draw, it activates the battery and heats the coil, thereby vaporizing the fluid. Nothing is burning, you are merely boiling the fluid, and inhaling the vapor. It's just a vaporized liquid. It is important that this coil stays saturated in fluid, if not, it will burn the residue, taste bad, and eventually burn out like a light bulb filament. These are however, fairly sturdy components. It takes a lot to burn them out. You will know when the fluid is low by the lack of vapor and the taste. You can tell when its time to set it down for a few minutes when it becomes hot to the touch.

    THE BATTERY

    The battery is a lithium ion 3.6 volt rechargeable. It can last up to 3 months. It has a computer chip and a little silicone flap connected to contacts that activate it. Depending on the model you buy they come in from 150 mAh to 280 mAh. The mAh rating determines how long it will last between charges. Since the switch is activated by drawing on the atomizer, there must be airflow, hence the liquid, if overfilled, can get into the battery and mess up the function of the switch. It also has a computer chip inside that shuts it down if you have taken a draw exceeding 5 seconds or if the voltage is low and it needs recharging. There is a LED at the end that will flash if either of these occur, and lights steadily during a draw. The biggest problem with the battery is the liquid getting into it. It can make it short the switch out or make it sporadic in function. Make sure you keep the connections clean by wiping them with a paper towel.
    If the battery is malfunctioning, try blowing into the end of it by mouth or with a can of air. Tap it on the table a few times lightly to dislodge any fluid that might be impeding the contacts. Wipe it clean and try it again.
    There are also the manual batteries which contain a small button you press during a draw. These tend to have less problems than the autos but prohibit hands free operation and usually don't last as long between charges. They are very popular because you can take as long a draw as you like, and are less likely to malfunction. The only problem we are having is with the 801 and 901 manual batteries. They just came out with them and they're not perfect yet. The little button can pop out when wiping it. I always include an extra one, so if you lose it, it's OK.
    The Chargers have an LED light that is supposed to tell you when it is charged, but they are not reliable. I suggest you charge the battery for at least 3 hours when it is dead, regardless of the light, this way you will get the most out of your battery.

    E-LIQUID

    E-liquid is sold online on many sites, it comes in a variety of strengths and flavors, from 36mg down to 0mg. It is recommended to start with a medium strength, (similar to a real cig) and work your way down to 0mg. Then the only habit you have is the hand to mouth. You can work on that at your own leisure once you have beaten the nicotine.
    I have found that while some flavors are cool and amusing, they're not something you'll want to use all day. While the smoke/vapor can be accurately reproduced, its impossible to make it taste exactly like a burning weed. However, the flavors are close enough to satisfy you. If you are a menthol smoker, try the menthol juice, many users swear by it, and many find other flavors to take its place. If you're not, you have a lot more choices, it's really up to your palette.
    If you want to start over with a new flavor, take the wadding out of the cartridge and roll it in a paper towel until the liquid is gone from it. Then, fill the cartridge half way with the desired liquid. Re-insert the wadding into the cartridge and top it off until it is saturated.
    E-cigs do not last forever, you will be lucky if you get one that lasts 3 months. Still, if you have to buy one every 2-3 months, the money you save on cigarettes and the health benefits are well worth it.
    If this works for you, I recommend that you always have 2 at any given time. You won't go without this way.

    There is a wealth of information to be found on the net. For recipes of do it yourself e-liquid go to www.e-cigarette-forum.com and type "recipe" in the search area.
    For questions or to talk with other vapers go to www.vaportalk.com

    GLOSSARY OF TERMS This is the new vocabulary for the e-smoker:

    • Vaper - a person that uses an e-cig, as in "I'm a vaper."
    • Vape - verb as in, "do you vape?"
    • Analog - a real tobacco cicarette
    • Cart - cartridge containing e-liquid
    • Batt - battery • Man Batt - manual battery
    • Atty - atomizer • Pen Style - an e-cig generally longer than 150cm, looks like pen.
    • Mini - an ecig generally longer than 110cm, larger in diameter than a super mini.
    • Super Mini - the smallest, usually from 80 to 110cm. closest size to an analog.
    Last edited by Stoney; 02-05-11 at 02:18 PM. Reason: clean up
    RIDING OLD SKOOL and Whizgig like this.
    In order of useful: Provari V2 and V1, vamo, eGo twist, Katana v3, Hex, Orion v2, LavaTube, eGo x 6, VMAX, 510N, Tick V2, Tick V1, noEgo 18650, noEgo 14650 , Indulgence x 2, 905 6v mod, KR808D



  5. #5
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    Looks good Stoney, listed a couple off edits below, but this is looking great


    LR atty, eg 510LR .. lower resistance than standard, eg 1.6Ω when standard is 2.2Ω, Is used to simulate HV on a standard battery


    PEG400 Polyethylene glycol 400, a base material to add flavour and/or nicotine to, it doesn't have the sweet tones of PG/VG



    Not sure if you can edit the stuff u pulled off the internet but if you can this bit could use a fix
    THE BATTERY

    The battery is a lithium ion 3.6 volt rechargeable. It can last up to 3 months. It has a computer chip and a little silicone flap connected to contacts that activate it. Depending on the model you buy they come in from 150 mAh to 280 mAh.
    RIDING OLD SKOOL likes this.

  6. #6
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    What's a bridgeless cartomiser and why should I care about this as opposed to a bridged one?
    If it's a great day do die, it's a better day to live

    JuiceWhore Sig

    Disclaimer: this is my opinion, everyone may disagree with me but unless my math is wrong, i'm right .

  7. #7
    BananaMan
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    That would be a Bridgeless Atomiser For dripping use only.
    Simply, the atomiser is gutted except for the heating coil - which, in theory, will produce a cleaner vape.

  8. #8
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    A must for alll Noobs

    Quote Originally Posted by Stoney;[B
    Electrical Theory[/B]
    A multimeter is a very useful tool for a vaper.

    So it helps to have a basic understanding of 4 terms.

    voltage (volts - V), current(amps - A), resistance (ohms - Ω) and Power(watts - W).
    A water anology helps .. imagine the battery as a water tank up on a stand with a big hose connected to it and running down to the ground.
    The heater in the atomiser or cartomiser (a resistor) as a thin pipe connected to the hose.

    The height of the water tank (or the amount the tap is on,sort of) will adjust the pressure if a hose is connected. Think of voltage as this pressure.
    Now the rate of water through the pipe will depend on its diameter. This diameter is the resistance. A thinner pipe is the same as a higher resistance.

    The amount of water flowing is the current. Its a current flow. Logically a higher current will empty the tank faster. The capacity rating of a battery is mAh, this can be thought of as litres. Its how big the tank is. Basically a 650mAh battery means it can have 650mA drawn from it for one hour before its empty. 325mA for 2 hours etc..

    Power(watts) is a bit trickier to get a correct analogy for. Its the multiplication of both the pressure (voltage) and the flow (current). effectively it could be thought of as the inertia of all the water in the pipe.
    Like a fire hose has more power than a garden hose at the same pressure, a pressure sprayer has more power than a garden hose at the same flow rate.

    This power is what we are after .. it is directly proportional to the amount of vapour from the ecig.

    The 2 basic formulas are current = volts / resistance (I = V/R) .. double the volts is double the current, half the resistance is double the current.

    and Power = volts x current (P = V.I) .. here is where it gets interesting. by a bit of maths ..

    Since P = V * I and I = V / R .. then replacing the I in equation 1 with equation 2 we get ..
    P = (V * V) / R

    ie if you half the resistance you get double the power, if you double the voltage you get 4 times the power. This is why a dual battery mod can put out 4 times the power of a single battery mod. This is because when the voltage doubles (pressure) it will also increase the flow rate (current) So you get a double doubling of the power so to speak. Changing atty resistances is sort of a fine adjustment of power, changing the voltage makes a huge adjustment in power. You cannot adjust the current by itself, you can only change it by changing the voltage or the resistance. Changing the voltage then changes both the voltage and the current, changing the resistance also changes the current .. but the main formula P = V * I .. the resistance is not mentioned.


    TBC..
    As a Noob, I have to saya big thank yoo to Stoney. This whole thread is just what I needed.
    All I ask is can we make it easier to find for the likes of me?
    As a qualified Electrician and Plumber I would like to say I totally concur with the above description.
    Thanks to you Stoney
    Gary
    Last edited by Hawkmoon; 04-05-11 at 09:10 AM.

  9. #9
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    Question

    May I ask a few dumb questions about flavours?

    With many flavours, such as the fruity ones, it is obvious what they are intended to taste like. However, as a n00b, I've been struggling a bit with some flavours, especially the tobacco ones.

    I've seen a lot of names which mean diddly-squat to me, for instance, RY4 (I think that was it). Is there any chance that someone could give us the drum (pardon the pun) on what some of these flavours, particularly the tobacco flavours, are like, i.e. the Aussie equivalent in analogues? Thank you!
    Just how much can a koala bear?

    @(*o*)@


  10. #10
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    A good point and valid for newcomer.
    easy to answer too .. no tobacco flavour tastes like a burning cigarette. thats the rule .. I think in reality, you really wouldn't like the flavour anyway. Thats often considered an ashtray lick flavour. Trying to pin what smoke itself actually tastes like is tricky, I am sure they could analyse the smoke and get all the flavoids if they really wanted to, I suspect it would stink and taste like crap though and probably be extremely toxic to boot.
    The closest to a real tobacco flavour I have ever found is Tasty Vapours Tobacco, its because it is made with soaking real virginia tobacco leaves in PG, at best it tastes like what diluting tobacco in PG tastes like, eg .. it has the smell of UNBURNT tobacco, it actually goes stale like tobacco quite quickly too. Its still vapeable in a diluted form as its hell strong stuff.
    RY4 is a legacy name from the first ecig type, the ruyan pipe .. this came with what is now called RY1 flavour and is the approxomation that whoever makes the juice thinks the first ruyan juice tasted like. They later changed flavor and the attempted copies of this are RY2, they are now up to the fourth taste, copies are called RY4 which seems to rock people boats. Ruyan keep their actual blend secret, so the only way to get the real RY4 is by buying the exxy Ruyan stuff.
    In order of useful: Provari V2 and V1, vamo, eGo twist, Katana v3, Hex, Orion v2, LavaTube, eGo x 6, VMAX, 510N, Tick V2, Tick V1, noEgo 18650, noEgo 14650 , Indulgence x 2, 905 6v mod, KR808D



 

 
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