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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    May 2010
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    Clagiraba, Queensland
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    nhaler ato-misers

    interesting device .. needs some thought.
    for them not familiar its a wind your own atty mod, airflow is through 2 (very small .. maybe 0.5mm or so ) holes in the sides of the top cap, there is no tank, simply what is held by about a foot long strand of wick.
    supplied with a bunch of wires marked 2,3 and 4Ω and a good handful of wick. since I have kept reusing the same bit of wick, i guess I will run out of wire first.
    wire is not the same diameter its entire length, appears to have been clamped and stretched in the centre. needs care where it changes diameter, its a weak spot, bending too much here will snap it.

    it is important to get ALL of the thin wire in contact with wick to keep it cool, any in mid air will glow bright orange and I imagine fail pretty quick, even if it didnt fail, its simply a waste of power with no vapour.

    my technique is to use either 4 or 6 strands of wick and hold along side the wrapping former, be it a pin,nail or toothpick.
    then hold thick part of wire along length of wick and start wrapping, the first wrap is then the thicker wire .. don't pull hard, it does not need to be tight, just tight enough to bind the wicks together and pull onto the former.
    then keep wrapping till no more thin wire left, then wrap one rotation of the heavier wire end around.

    there is masses of difference between a closely wrapped wire and one with big gaps between wires. what I have found is tighter produces more vapour, looser more flavour and TH.

    If you only have thick wire coming off the wick now, then length to the screws is not an issue, thick wire does not get hot. So clamp about 5mm from the heater. Leaves room to manoeuvre. I find heater next to and and above screws is best.

    David on the VF forums (nhaler guy) suggested that the top cap be screwed on so the holes are next to the heater not along its length, this can be determined externally by the screw/wrench hole on the base of the atty.

    air flow is another thing that is different to a normal atty, the air is not pulled around the heater .. the vapour is produced and drawn off by air currents. This I am not convinced is a good thing. I have grabbed some hungry jacks straws, cut an inch or so off, sliced up one side and rolled tighter and fitted into the top hole and pushed down till just above the heater.
    Makes some difference to reducing TH but makes it hard to drip.

    day 1 .. 4 attys built.
    first was a 3Ω wire wound tight on 4 strands of wick and the supplied safety pin, this produced damn good vapour and reasonable flavour, (dekang peanut butter), started to taste burnt after 20 minutes I think. poor wicking. I did use it for a while from memory as it got quite gunged up.

    memory fails me exactly, I think I may have rinsed in water and then dry burned it. was still black in between the wire.
    So I removed heater and threw it in on the gas hob to clean, it was still black in between the wires, no amount of heat seemed to clean it.
    Unwrapped wire and wick .. black marks every few inches on the wick, reheated in the gas and it came up spotless, used it for the next one.

    atty 2 .. i cant remember well, I think the wire snapped and I ended up with thin wire on one end only, left this at 3 or 4mm and it was a light bulb on that end. This atty died during repair attempts.

    atty 3 .. experiment, wrapped the wick and wire (2Ω from memory) into a loose spiral together.
    So instead of heating say 4 or 5mm of wick like usual, this was heating maybe an inch and half.
    Then loosely bundled it in and tried that. This was a revelation. The strongest flavour and most insane TH ever with almost no vapour. I used it for about 5 minutes and realised my toes where tingling. I have a suspicion that the cooler temps are not destroying the nic like a red hot wire does. It also uses **** all juice for obvious reasons. This could explain larger juice usage in say the ego tanks, maybe they run a hotter heater and produce a lot of vapour nut destroy the nic in the process.

    more to come on this front ..

    atty 4 .. my current one.
    3Ω wire wrapped on a toothpick instead of a pin over 6 strands of wick. fairly tight coil between wires, but loosish around former. Its not bad, good wicking with no burning but not ideal. TH is still too much.

    I think a heavier pin than the original, 4 strands, 3Ω, tight coil (between wires) is my next attempt.

    excess heater wire can be left in place if its not contacting the base.
    i have also used a small section of it to tie the 2 end loops of the wick above the heater, not that useful apart from making it easier to get it screwed back together.

    needs ..
    I think I may try drilling the holes larger in the atty sides, they can be filled with araldite if its no good, will report back on those findings.

    considering drilling the top of the atty mouthpiece so I can tight fit an empty 510 or 306 atty outer into the hole, this will be adjustable up and down to get closer to the heater and a drip tip can be fitted to it.

    There is an awful lot of options and I am going to try and cover them one by one.

    A VV is an absolute must for this device.
    In order of useful: Provari V2 and V1, vamo, eGo twist, Katana v3, Hex, Orion v2, LavaTube, eGo x 6, VMAX, 510N, Tick V2, Tick V1, noEgo 18650, noEgo 14650 , Indulgence x 2, 905 6v mod, KR808D



  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    QLD
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    I know this is an old thread but I am pretty keen on getting two of these. I have a couple of questions.
    1. do you have to use non conductive wire with conductive wire to get this bad boy going?
    2. What have you found that will improve its preformance?
    3. Is it worth getting?
    Just ignore me and I'll go away.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Sydney, Hills District
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    I have heard that it is not that great.

    I look around a lot.

    RC

  4. #4
    AVF Regular
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    Mar 2011
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    5,466
    Quote Originally Posted by Ravenscroft View Post
    I have heard that it is not that great.

    I look around a lot.

    RC
    +1.........

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Clagiraba, Queensland
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    +1

    it was an interesting toy for a while, but then I think the ego-t came out and I moved on, never really got back to it.
    the worst part about it is what seems to be a persistent hint of flavour off the bakelight I think, though I think airflow changes could maybe remove it, putting a piece of drinking straw made a difference.
    make me a half reasonable offer and its yours. its in my ecig history drawer with the .. other thing, top feeder alluminium bit, forgot the name.
    In order of useful: Provari V2 and V1, vamo, eGo twist, Katana v3, Hex, Orion v2, LavaTube, eGo x 6, VMAX, 510N, Tick V2, Tick V1, noEgo 18650, noEgo 14650 , Indulgence x 2, 905 6v mod, KR808D



  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    QLD
    Posts
    393
    is it necessary to use non conductive wire? I am going to get two. If you had two stoney I'd make an offer, one for me and one for the wife. I would be interested in doing a lot of experimenting with it especially trying blue foam/wick/steel mesh combos.

    I like the look of the squiggle and have contacted the seller. Copper wires have put me off from what I read in the forums.

    Two cheap rebuildables is what I am after, just to play with and eventually grow to love. Nothing like making an average thing better. Gives me a sense of achievement. I read that by adding batting/blue foam as a liner in the ato-miser reduces air space and improves the performance in wicking. Maybe I could find a tube that it could fit in, cut it down nice and short.... I dunno but it'd be allot of fun. The squiggle would be great to play with too.... except the copper posts... maybe solder and hot glue would fix it?
    Just ignore me and I'll go away.

 

 

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